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Our wonderful friend Stuart popped in this afternoon with a bag of fresh-from-the-earth ramps he’d picked up at the local ramp festival near his weekend house in Milford, Pennsylvania.  Dinner plans were thrown out the door and ramps went right on the menu – made a great pasta dish featuring the entire plant.  Here’s what I did.

Sauteed about ½ cup of diced pancetta in extra virgin olive oil.  When it started to brown, I added the sliced white bulb of the ramps.  Sautéed until just soft, then I added the sliced ramp greens and a couple of handfuls of fresh garden peas.  Tossed the mix into thin spaghetti which I moistened with just a touch of heavy cream.  When blended, I added about ½ cup of grated parmesan cheese and a good dose of pepper.  Dusted each serving with some toasted bread crumbs and served extra cheese on the side.  Spring had arrived!

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For some time I have been hearing rumblings about a “charming little restaurant” in Bloomville, New York so on our way back to New York City from Cooperstown we made a slight detour to give it a try.  My best pal, Lynn, followed us in her car to join us for a quick breakfast – if the café was open.  And, it was.  The café was charming, the cook/hostess loverly, and the food very tasty.  We had two of the dishes we had read about – egg in a nest and egg in a glass.  The latter was simply that – farm fresh soft boiled eggs with olive oil, herbs, and spices in a little canning jar and the former was a biscuity mix of biscuit, egg, bacon, and cheese baked all together in, I would guess, a large muffin cup or ramekin.  The day was freezing, but the food and warmth of the spot made the detour worthwhile.  We want to make a trip back for their weekend pizza nights.

 

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A couple of weeks ago I rediscovered the Chelsea Market – a spot called by its founders “an urban food court.”  Oh, I knew it was there, but just too out-of-the-way for everyday food shopping.  Located on 9th Avenue about 16th Street in the old National Biscuit Company (Nabisco) factory, many of the artifacts of its previous life remain which makes a visit there a little bit other-worldly.  Running along the center courtyard-like hall are wonderful food shops offering prime and sometimes unique products.  Since everything is so inviting, it is yet another place that tends to make me spend more than I have in my pocket.

Manhattan Fruit Exchange is one of my favorite shops in the Market.  They have been around forever supplying restaurants, but are most welcoming to everyday shoppers.  You can always find an array of exotic fruits and vegetables, the first products of the every season, and a wide variety of fresh and dried mushrooms and herbs.  It was the mushrooms that caught my eye the other day – especially a beautiful stack of floral oyster mushrooms.  I couldn’t resist buying a big lump of fresh-looking “petals.”  Along with the mushrooms I got some of the best spring asparagus and a few spring onions and I knew exactly what I’d do when I got home.

Here’s my plan:  I trimmed the asparagus, split the onions in half, lengthwise, and laid them out on a baking pan along with my bouquet of mushrooms.  I seasoned with sea salt and pepper, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, and added some fresh orange and lemon juice to the pan.  Roasted them all together in a hot oven to serve as an appetizer (with a spritzing of aged balsamic) for a little quiet welcome spring dinner.  Yum, yum, yum!

 

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Happy Easter!

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The other morning my buddy, Deena, dropped a container of her famous pulled pork off while we were having coffee.  She loves heat and spice and all the flavors of Mexico and had spent the weekend doctoring up a pork butt in anticipation of sandwiches and such for Super Bowl watching.  Well, let me tell you – doctor it she did.  It was beyond delicious!  Not the typical barbecuey pulled pork that is on so many menus, but a moist, chipotle-flavored yummy pull.  Steve and I had a great lunch of warm, spicy pork heaped on an iceberg lettuce leaf topped with some chopped onion and pickled jalapeño.  I don’t have the recipe – it is Deena’s secret and she doesn’t share!!!!

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When I was 16 I had the great good fortune of doing the “grand tour” of Europe along with my best friend and her mom.  We sailed over and spent the summer months in a rental car touring as many countries as we could.  It was then that I fell head over heels in love with France – “Sur le pont d’Avignon, On y danse, on y danse, Sur le pont d’Avignon, On y danse, tous en rond” rondelayed in my head and of all the names I heard as we traveled the Loire Valley Diane de Poitiers stuck like glue as she seemed to spend assignation time in almost every chateau we visited.  Unfortunately, in my teenage years I didn’t know how important “arte culinaire” would one day be to me, so I didn’t experience the fine dining that defined France, but lived on great bread and cheese.
All of this to tell you about a dream trip organized by my friends Arlene and Chef Alain Sailhac (one of America’s treasured French chefs) through their company, Food-o-Philes, a luxurious culinary travel group, that will take us through the Loire Valley, the garden of France, in late June and early July.  I can’t think of another area where everything that exemplifies France can be found – the magnificent chateaus, the centuries-old monuments and vineyards, the cheeses, the wines, the luxe meals.  I’m dreaming now, but come summer it can be a reality.   If I’ve piqued your interest, call Arlene – she’s fun to talk to – 917-544-5568 or email her at grtcooks@aol.com to learn more.

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©stephen kolyer_scallop

It’s not very often that we see fresh scallops with their roe attached in the market.  Recently not only did I find them, but they were gigantic.  I cleaned them up and placed them, one at a time, into a hot pan.  I added a bit of white wine and butter into the shell, seasoned with salt and pepper, covered the pan, and cooked for just a few minutes to warm the shellfish and make a little sauce.  They made an exceptionally exotic appetizer with the barely cooked scallop devoured on its own and the bright orange roe slathered on some rye toast.  Along with some lovely New Zealand sauvignon blanc, of course!

 

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After all the sadness of recent weeks brought on by the devastation wrought by Hurricane Sandy, I have been delighted to feel the joy of Christmas in the air.  All sizes of Christmas trees are stacked front of corner Korean delis and massed in front of my beloved Zingone’s – tiny Charlie Brown trees up to 7 footers that will take up a good part of most New York City apartments.  While at the ever-expanding holiday stall manned by some young Canadians behind the Museum of Natural History, magnificent trees that tower almost up to the street lights give the feeling of the forest.  The front of the history is festooned with 2 gigantic apatosaurus (I thought they were called brontosaurus, but Steve just told me I have been wrong all these years) statues covered in fir branches and tiny glimmering lights that delight young and old.  New York is not a Currier and Ives lithograph any more, but it is a spectacular place to experience Christmas.  And, New Yorkers really are warm and welcoming.  Do come celebrate with us!

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We’ve just come back from a wonderful Thanksgiving in San Francisco, celebrated with both family and friends.   Isn’t it just the best holiday?   The table is overflowing, there is not a reason to be divided – it’s all about gratitude and sharing.  It is my favorite celebration.  We stayed a bit longer than we usually do, enjoying the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market (this is Chris chowing down on his favorite Mexican breakfast of chilaquiles from Prima Vera) where the fall crops were abundant – look at these huge carrots! – and having a quiet breakfast every morning sharing sugar brioche.  Now on to Christmas!

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In the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy we all thought that Halloween would be cancelled, but our neighborhood home-owners didn’t allow that to happen.  Pumpkins, carved and whole, in windows or on stoops lit the way along with pots of chrysanthemums and mounds of gourds decorating  houses and apartment buildings.  Witches flew from brownstone windows and bats fluttered in the almost leafless trees.  Little ones dressed in cuddly costumes and bigger ones in scary makeup went trick or treating up and down the avenues.  Halloween very definitely happened!

 

 

 

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