Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for April, 2012

A few days ago we were in upstate New York spending a couple of days with our wonderful friends, Bee and Doug.  I was on dinner duty with 3 packs of frozen scallops and whatever I could fend from our not insignificant pantry.  I wasn’t too sure about the scallops – although I’m sure most of what we buy in our fancy neighborhood fish store have probably been frozen and thawed – but as it turned out they were quite delicious.  But, that’s not the story.

The weather was not really very spring-like – in fact, big flakes of snow filled the air off and on all day – but Mother Nature had begun her work a few weeks ago when the temperatures hit the 80s – a rarity in summer in the country – and the countryside was rife with daffodils, grape hyacinths, some tulips, wild strawberries spreading in the grass with their delicate little white flowers peeking up—- and the window boxes, although moved inside, had verdant bunches of basil, sage, thyme, and parsley – no rosemary – that was in the winter-over corner where it has managed to survive through 3 winters.

Bee took our man’s best friend, Lena Mae, out for her constitutional and came back with a handful of sweet wild purple and yellow violets and 2 stalks of asparagus (the only 2 big enough to pick).  So, I cooked up those scallops – dusted them with Wondra flour and salt and pepper and gave them a fast and furious sear in clarified butter – layered them on some couscous cooked in lemon/sage scented broth, drizzled the lot with a tangy lemon vinaigrette and garnished the plate with slivered raw asparagus and those little violets.  Added a side of sautéed julienne of carrots and snow peas and Viola an easy and spring-like dinner was on the table in minutes.

Read Full Post »

 

One of my favorite spring sights at the farmers market is the appearance of bulbs of  fresh garlic.  It is wonderful to cook with as it is still quite sweet with just a hint of the aroma and strength of the dried stuff.  Also, unlike the dried, the fresh comes straight from the earth somewhere nearby rather than in a container from China.  I use it in every way I can think of, but especially in home fries, sautéed with bitter greens (tonight it was kale), and cooked in butter until soft and sweet to add to scrambled eggs or to use as a dip for crusty bread.

Read Full Post »

 

If you are a clam eater you probably have, often without knowing it.  At the farmers market baskets of little necks and cherry stones were my first order of business to make linguine with clam sauce.  However, a lovely Japanese lady in front of me inquired about some giant clams and when the vendor gave her the sushi name for them, the delicate little lady jumped for joy.  Hokkigai – or surf clam tongue – is quite a delicacy and at 50¢ each a bargain to boot, so she promptly bought quite a few.  I, of course, then had to buy some, also.  I wasn’t sure that I had the skill to turn them into sushi, but figured that I could investigate them a bit and always steam them and chop the meat for my sauce.  In talking to the lively vendor, I learned that these big fat guys are what is used to make clam strips – the breaded and fried summer treat served  all along the Eastern seaboard, either with tartar sauce for dipping or in a clam roll.

I bought 4 and took them home to check out.  We were totally fascinated as their strange siphon poked out of the shell and, once placed in salt water, the tongue shimmied like my sister Kate.  Steve photographed them and I have to admit that I realized I didn’t really know how to turn them into sushi so I cooked them and then chopped up the meat to add to my clam sauce.

And here is how I made my sauce.  I used the cooking broth of the surf clams for my base.  (I did strain it through some paper towel to make sure all of the sand stayed out of the sauce).  Added some leftover white wine, a cup of homemade chicken stock, lots of garlic and red chile flakes along with a sprig or two of fresh thyme.  Brought the mix to a simmer and let it simmer for about 15 minutes.  Added the chopped clam meat along with 2 dozen little necks.  Covered the pan and simmered it all for about 10 minutes or until all of the clams opened.  Tossed in a handful of chopped parsley and served it over some chewy imported Italian linguine along with a loaf of steecci from Sullivan Street Bakery (www.sullivanstreetbakery.com) for sopping up the garlicy clam broth.

 

 

Read Full Post »

Some years ago when my beautiful “almost daughter” Anne and her husband, Henry, bought their dreamed-of house in the south of France we made a quick visit just as they were moving in.  Anne said “it’s so hot, don’t bring anything but summer clothes” – well, you know what happened.  It was cold as the blazes, we couldn’t figure out how to work the heat, and the blankets weren’t yet unpacked.  So, we made lots of excursions in their tiny car trying to keep warm.  One of the excursions took us on a lunch quest to La Bastide de Moustiers, Chef Alain Ducasse’s auberge in the hills of Provence.  As we waited to be seated we were served the house aperitif, a Sonaillo made with a local liqueur, and a bowl full of crisp, ever-so-slightly pungent French breakfast radishes with sweet, sweet butter and sea salt.  A simple but extraordinary beginning to a delightful meal.

This is a very long – and perhaps not too interesting – introduction to my visit to the farmers market on Saturday where the loveliest bunch of spring time French breakfast radishes brought the memory right back.  I, of course, bought them and planned a quiet cocktail hour with my house cocktail – Aperol and Processco with a slice of orange – and the same presentation of radishes, sweet butter (Kate’s from Vermont), and sea salt.  What we got was a bunch of pithy, soggy miserable radishes – they looked absolutely luscious – as Steve’s photo shows – but what a disappointment.  Chalk it up to another example of being not able to tell a book by its cover.

 

Read Full Post »

 

On our last trip to San Francisco I bought freshly made hominy.  I had never seen the likes of it before although I grew up in the southwest with hominy frequently on the table.  The hominy I knew was big fat soft white kernels but this hominy was a vibrant mix of multi-colored heritage firm corn kernels.  In case you don’t know what hominy is it is simply dried corn kernels – in my experience either white or yellow – with the germ and hull removed that have been soaked in lye or slaked lime.  It is a traditional food of Native Americans frequently served throughout the southwestern states.  Growing up those many years ago we had it in casseroles and as a side dish with peppers and onions.  It is an important component of posole, the delicious Mexican pork stew which I make from time to time.  It was my intention to use the freshly made in posole, but we got busy and it never happened.  You might say that I wasted my money, but the beauty of the corn and the thought that this ancient food is being revived by young farmers gave me a good return for my investment.

Read Full Post »

 

On our recent trip to San Francisco during a Saturday visit to the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market I discovered what the farmer called a “cherimoya” but what I have known as a sugar apple or a soursop.  When I went hunting on the internet, the cherimoya looked more like an antemoya, but I don’t think it really matters “cause they are probably versions of one thing and are all probably just as delicious as the soursop and sugar apples I have come to love on our visits to the Caribbean.  I don’t much know what you do with them other than eat the flesh as I do, carefully spitting out the toxic seeds or scrape the flesh into a freezer container, freeze it, and eat it like ice cream.  The texture is soft and custard-like, the aroma perfumey, and the flavor is so, so delicious – a combination of banana, pineapple, lime, and something not quite ready to identify itself on your tongue.

 

 

 

Read Full Post »

 

Many years ago during a time of mourning my closest friend provided dinners to our grieving family.  The first dinner she delivered was centered around a perfectly cooked leg of lamb and I have forever thought of lamb as providing a meal filled with generosity and kindness.  These are attributes that meld with resurrection and joy at this time of year when the world is awash in the the re-emergence of nature’s beauty.  In NYC we have been blessed with a very early spring – Central Park is aglow with hills of yellow and orange daffodils.  The Bradford pear trees lining our street are gently shedding, giving the cars and sidewalks as well as stroller’s shoulders a coating of soft white petals.  The temperatures have been in the unseasonable 70s and we are all waiting for the other shoe to drop with plummeting temperatures and a threat of snow.  Every day I hear someone say “I remember an April day when I woke up to a foot of snow”.  I’m just breezin’ along with the breeze, enjoying the warmth and celebrating spring – even in the kitchen where a leg of lamb has announced that “spring has sprung”.

I think everyone has a favorite way of roasting a leg of lamb – mine is quite simple.  Make any number of slits into the flesh and fill each one with a clove of garlic.  Generously salt and pepper and coat with a thin layer of celery seed.  Roast in a very hot oven – I do 450ºF – for about an hour and then turn it down to 350ºF and roast until a meat thermometer registers 140ºF for rare.  You can throw some potatoes, carrots, turnips, parsnips, onions or whatever into the roasting pan if you like.  I like to serve a little mix-up of grated horseradish (and ‘cause Passover season also, you can find fresh horseradish in every market) and chopped fresh mint along with it.

 

 

 

Read Full Post »

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 74 other followers