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Archive for March, 2012

I love, love, love cheese.  My perfect meal is centered around it – a loaf of great crusty bread, a perfectly ripe pear, and a bottle of pinot noir.  What could be better?  Two of my most favorite cheeses come from Cowgirl Creamery (www.cowgirlcreamery.com )in Pt. Reyes Station, California – Mt. Tam and Red Hawk.  I used to ferret them back with me from San Francisco but I can now buy them at any number of stores in NYC, even Whole Foods.  I can’t eat cheese as often as I would like (doctor’s orders, ugh) but a small taste as dessert doesn’t count.

Here is a description of the company taken directly from their website from which you can order their extraordinary products.  “In 1997, Sue Conley and Peggy Smith opened Cowgirl Creamery in Pt. Reyes Station……… They started with an old barn, made it beautiful, put in a small plant for making hand-crafted cheese, bought organic milk from the neighbor, Straus Family Creamery…….  From the beginning, they wanted to make delicious, artisan cheese, to be environmentally responsible, and they also wanted to support their cheesemaking friends in being sustainable land stewards. Today, Cowgirl Creamery continues to make just a small collection of cheese — four, soft aged and three fresh, totaling about 3,000 pounds per week. ”

I think that Steve Kolyer’s painting says it all!

 

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I love what I call “nursery desserts” – custards, puddings, floating island, tapioca – but not jello – on a cool winter’s day I recently made this dense, pudding-like baked dessert that took me right back to an 19th century English nursery.

Baked Fruit Pudding

Serves 6 to 8

About 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature for greasing pan

4 large eggs, at room temperature, separated

½ cup granulated sugar

5 tablespoons all-purpose flour, sifted

½ cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1½ cups fresh strawberries, quartered or whole raspberries, blueberries, or blackberries, 

plus more for serving, optional

Preheat the oven to 400ºF.

Generously coat the interior of an 8-inch square baking pan with butter.  Set aside.

Place the egg whites in a small mixing bowl and, using a hand-held electric mixer, beat

for about 3 minutes or until stiff peaks form.  Set aside.

Combine the egg yolks with 3 tablespoons of the sugar in a medium mixing bowl.  Using a hand-held electric mixer (you don’t have to wash the beaters), beat for about 3 minutes or until quite thick.

Add the flour, cream, and vanilla and continue beating until very smooth.  Using a rubber spatula, blend about a quarter of the beaten egg whites into the batter to thoroughly incorporate.  Then, carefully fold in the remaining egg whites to create a light, fluffy mix.

Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish.  If using, sprinkle the berries over the top noting that they will sink.

Place in the preheated oven and bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown and puffed up.

Place the confectioners’ sugar in a fine mesh sieve.  Set aside.

Remove from the heat and quickly sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar by gently tapping on the side of the sieve as you hold it over the hot soufflé.

Serve immediately with additional berries, if desired.

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The other day Uncle Nick at my favorite neighborhood store, Zingone’s, insisted that I buy some beautiful baby eggplant that he was proudly showing off.  One of the other regulars started to give me a cooking lesson on making a quick eggplant dish when Nick interrupted “she’s a cook, quit tellin’ her want to do, she knows.”  Well, then, of course, I had to buy some of his prized produce.  Steve doesn’t much like eggplant so I always try to think of something zesty to do with them that he will, perhaps, find more enticing.  This time I grilled them, whole, on my stovetop grill pan, and then tossed them with some chopped Campari tomatoes and red onion added some minced garlic and hot chiles along with whatever herbs were wilting in the fridge – some basil, chives, and oregano.  Sprinkle on some evo and then a bit of sherry vinegar – topped the salad with a handful of grilled shrimp and we had a simple, but oh so satisfying dinner.

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For some time I have been promising my friend Deena (of tamale lady fame) to make mole for her.  I got to be a self-proclaimed expert at it when I was doing a lot of consulting – advising large companies on how to introduce new products into an ever-expanding marketplace.  I will admit that I’m a bit lazy these days and don’t use the mortar and pestle like I should, so mole making is not quite as time consuming as it once was.  Steve, my wonderful photographing husband, loves nothing better than the time he spends in Oaxaca, Mexico, an area known for its great moles so he has come to really appreciate the authentic dish.  A long story to say I spent the day making mole in preparation for a Mexican celebration of chicken in mole sauce, pinto beans, rice, and guacamole for Deena.  We’ll probably down some cerveza or cerveza preparada (tomato juice, beer, and hot sauce mix) or margaritas to toast the many wonderful cooks south of our borders.

Here’s my recipe for Mole Negro Oaxaqueño (Chicken in Mole Sauce, Oaxaca-Style).  Tradition says cook the chicken first and then proceed with the recipe, but I always have plenty of chicken stock in the freezer so I use that to prepare the sauce.  I make the sauce and when I want to serve it I sear the chicken pieces (I usually cut up 2 whole chickens, but you could use any parts you like – if you use skinless, boneless breasts, don’t overcook), add them to the sauce, and cook for about 25 minutes just before serving.  You can garnish with toasted sesame seeds or chopped cilantro if you like.  Tradition also says “use lard” but I opt for the healthier olive oil

2 ounces guajillo chiles, seeds and stems removed

4 pasilla chiles, seeds and stems removed

4 ancho chiles, seeds and stems removed

5 tablespoons olive oil

Two ½-inch thick slices French or Italian bread

1½ cups canned diced fire-roasted tomatoes with green chiles with juice

1 cup chopped onion

¼ cup diced dried apricots

¼ cup black raisins

¼ cup unsalted peanuts

¼ cup slivered almonds

¼ cup cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried oregano

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 cups chicken stock or canned nonfat, low-sodium chicken broth

2 bay leaves

2½ ounces unsweetened chocolate

Salt to taste

Break the chiles into pieces and place in a small, heatproof bowl.  Cover with very hot water and set aside to soak for 1 hour or until very soft.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat.  Add the bread and fry for about 4 minutes or until the bread is turning brown and the olive oil has been absorbed.  Remove from the heat and set aside.

Drain the chiles, separately reserving the soaking water.

Combine the chiles with the tomatoes, onion, apricots, raisins, peanuts, almonds, cilantro, garlic, sesame seeds, pepper, thyme, oregano, cloves, and cinnamon in a large mixing bowl.  Add the reserved bread pieces and toss to blend.

Working in batches, puree the mixture in a high-speed blender or food processor fitted with the metal blade, adding the reserved soaking water as needed to make a very thick paste-like puree.

Heat the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.  Add the paste and fry, stirring frequently, for about 7 minutes or until the paste has taken on some color.

Scrape the paste into a large saucepan.  Add the chicken stock and bay leaves and place over medium heat.  Bring to a simmer, stirring frequently.  Add the chocolate and continue to stir until the chocolate has melted into the sauce.

Season with salt to taste, lower the heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 25 minutes or until the flavors have blended nicely.  (You can make the sauce up to this point; then cool, place in a nonreactive container, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 3 months).

 

 

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Being the queen of hummos making, I am very familiar with both canned and dried garbanzo beans – also known as chickpeas.  However, I don’t think I had ever seen fresh ones until a few days ago.  I bought just a small amount to open up, examine, and decide how to cook or use.  What I found out was the following – fresh garbanzos are absolutely and totally delicious – rather like the sweetest garden peas you’ve ever tasted.  I was so bereft at having been stingy with my purchase.  The few that I did have became a garnish for a small heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad.  The sweet beans were the perfect foil for the acidic tomatoes and balsamic vinegar dressing.  All this to say – if you see fresh garbanzo beans in the market, buy a mess of them.  It takes a bit of time to remove them from their papery, pale green covering, but the work is well-rewarded.  Next time I might try cooking them, but I’ll have to think of something wonderful to do with them that can equal the taste of them fresh from the pod.

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We first tried shishito peppers at the Union Square Farmers Market about 2 summers ago.  We loved them – mainly because eating them is such an adventure.  You get one really hot one every so often while the remainder is usually slightly sweet with a lovely hint of acid.  The hot one is always a surprise.  They are often just barely fried in a little extra virgin olive oil and served with a slice of lemon and a sprinkle of sea salt.

On a shopping trip to Whole Foods the other day I picked up a good amount to use as a first course for a not-too-fancy dinner party at home.  I combined them with some I’ve-forgotten-what-they-were mushrooms (they were golden and quite tasty) and instead of sautéing in olive oil, I used sesame oil, some sesame seeds, and a touch of soy sauce to finish.  It was a tasty combo that was a big hit with our guests – so much so that the leftovers were requested for a “take home” reminder of a great time at the table.

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Steve was longing for a “different” breakfast – something other than our daily granola, yogurt, and fruit.  I had picked up some big slices of freshly baked ham – something I never buy and can’t tell you why I felt the urge – at Fairway and here was my opportunity to use it.  What better for breakfast than that old Dr. Seuss favorite, green eggs and….

Grilled a slice of ham in my stovetop grill pan and scrambled up 2 farm fresh brown  eggs with a healthy dose of chopped flat leaf parsley and seasoned them well with salt and pepper.  Threw a couple of slices of whole wheat toast on the plate and waited for the kudos to come.  And they did with a clean plate returned to the kitchen.

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