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Archive for February, 2012

In our house, pasta rules.  We know it shouldn’t – that all those carbs don’t help the waistline, but nonetheless we have to have a warm bowl of the starchy stuff at least twice a week.  BUT, and this is the big BUT, we almost always have it mixed up and tossed with some type of healthy veggie.  Steve’s favorite is broccoli rabe, but it might be almost any other bitter green, just plain broccoli, a simple marinara (see my post of July 13, 2010), or whatever – we also love pasta with beans – cannellini or borlotti or you name it, we’re happy to mix it up.

My idea for pasta with broccoli rabe is very simple.  Of course, you have to have a big pot of boiling, very salty water going in which to cook your pasta.  Heat a good amount of spicy extra virgin olive oil in a large sauté pan.  Add a healthful amount of sliced garlic, some chili flakes and about a ½ cup stock (chicken or veggie) and bring to a simmer.  Simmer for about 5 minutes or just long enough to soften the garlic.  Add one bunch of broccoli rabe – well-washed, trimmed of tough ends, and chopped.  Season with salt and pepper, cover, and simmer, tossing and turning every few minutes, for about 12 to 15 minutes or until the rabe is wilted and tender.  Grate in the zest of about ½ lemon and sprinkle with a bit of fresh lemon juice.  While the rabe is cooking, you should have your pasta cooking and ready to go.  Drain the pasta, reserving about ¾ cup cooking water.  Return the pasta and water to whatever pan you cooked it in.  Add the broccoli rabe, scraping every bit of it into the pasta.  Add a good handful of grated cheese, toss to blend, and serve with more grated cheese on the side.  Easy and delicious!

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We stayed a little longer in San Francisco than we usually do on our Thanksgiving trip.  This gave us the opportunity to do more bopping around the countryside but it was well into preparation for Christmas when we returned to NYC so I didn’t have time to report on all of our good California eats.  One of which was enjoyed in Point Reyes Station at Osteria Stellina.  Point Reyes is situated in one of the most beautiful parts of the world – to get there from San Francisco we drove through misty redwood forests, over grey-brown hills serving as pasture land, along the beach, and around inlets and coves – all the while listening to our companion’s (son, daughter-in-law, good friend) tales of hiking the county’s strenuous trails and kayaking in the surrounding sea.  We did absolutely none of these arduous things but hearing about them made us tired and hungry, so our planned lunch at Osteria Stellina was a most welcome reward.

I can’t begin to tell you about all of the marvelous dishes that were presented to us – being greedy we always want a bit of everything on the menu – but I can tell you that everything we ate was exquisite and so satisfying.  Not only does the restaurant have its own farm whatever doesn’t come from the farm is plucked from local waters, farms, or ranches or foraged from the immediate area.  I do vividly remember the stinging nettle soup that the chef-owner, Christian Caiazzo, welcomed us with – a lovely, rich green and so creamy and smooth that it took all we could do to keep from licking our bowls clean.  We had great pizzas – one with local potatoes – bruscetta – a bountiful seafood stew – lusty beans and greens -  hearty stews and polenta – salads – lots of great Italian wine – and an array of truly not-needed, but gobbled anyway desserts.  As winter comes down on us in the East, I am secretly planning a trip back if only to sit in the comfortable dining room of Osteria Stellina, people watch onto Main Street through the expansive windows, sip a warming Italian wine, and let the chef delight me with his soulful dishes.

 

 

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I have had the good fortune to have a long standing and respectful relationship with The French Culinary Institute (www.frenchculinary.com) in New York City (now part of The International Culinary Center.)  Together we have won 2 James Beard Foundation awards for books focused on cooking from a professional point of view and our latest tome has just been published to wide acclaim.  The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Bread Baking is just about the only book you will need to bake all types of breads at home.  I, for one, can attest that the baguettes that come from the FCI bread classroom ovens are incomparable – even those baked by students in the one week compressed course for home bakers.  I am always delighted when one of the chefs says “you must take some bread home” – I never decline.  Now home cooks can bake delicious bread at home and this is truly a book worth learning from!

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When I was growing up, Christmas time meant a big bowl of mixed nuts in their shells.  Why only during this festive season I don’t know – perhaps they were a luxury to be enjoyed when expansiveness at the table was the rule, even for those of us who didn’t have much money.  So, this year I went off to the produce market and brought home a couple of pounds of these old favorites, except what I got was mainly walnuts.  A good amount of almonds joined them along with a few hazelnuts, a few Brazil nuts, and even fewer pecans.  When I read in the NY Times that pecan thieves were running amok in Georgia and that pecan prices were at an all time high, it didn’t take much for me to figure out how 2 pounds of mixed nuts contained about 10 pecans.  A long story to get to the point of walnuts and what to do with them.

One of the easiest and best things to do is to roast them.  You place as many walnuts as you like in a single layer on a baking sheet with sides.  Place them in a 350ºF oven for exactly 25 minutes.  Remove from the oven, cool, and store just as you would any nut in its shell.  Roasted walnuts exude a particularly slightly sweet toasty taste when still warm, however.

And here is a fancier recipe in which roasted walnuts add a nice touch:

 

Seared Duck Breast with Roasted Walnuts and Green Olive Tapenade

Serves 6

8 ounces pitted green olives

⅓ cup capers, well-drained

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon walnut oil

1 teaspoon fresh orange juice

Approximately ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

6 duck skin-on breast halves, neatly trimmed

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 cup roasted walnut pieces, warmed

 

Combine the olives, capers, garlic, and thyme in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade.  Process, using quick on and off turns, to just combine.  Add the walnut oil and orange juice and process to incorporate.  With the motor running, add just enough olive oil to make a well-textured mix – do not purée or allow to become pasty.  Scrape from the processor bowl into a clean container and set aside.  (The tapenade can be made up to 2 days in advance and stored, covered and refrigerated.  Bring to room temperature before using.)

Using a sharp chef’s knife, score the skin side of the duck breasts into a diamond pattern.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place a large heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium-high heat.  When very hot, add the duck breasts, skin side down.  Sear for about 6 minutes or until the fat has rendered out and the skin is nicely browned and crisp.  Turn and sear the remaining side for about 4 minutes or until the outside is nicely browned, but the interior remains rare.  Remove from the pan and allow to rest for a few minutes.

Using a sharp knife, cut each breast on the bias, keeping the slices together to form a whole breast.

Place a breast, slightly fanned out, on each of 6 plates, with a large, neatly formed tablespoon of tapenade on the side and the roasted walnuts sprinkled over the top.  (Any leftover tapenade can be used as a garnish on almost any type of meat, as a salad seasoning, or on sandwiches).

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I am determined to make my own fresh masa and for months now have been trying to arrange for a local building superintendent’s sister-in-law to give a lesson.  I had organized a small group of avid cooks to chip in a good amount of cash to lure her into my kitchen, but, so far, other obligations keep getting in the way.  So, in the meantime, I have been trying to catch the tamale lady.  My friend Deena had tracked her down in the neighborhood and very kindly shared her purchases with us which only got my mojo working, I had to find her and get her schedule.

Well, lucky me, on an unseasonably warm Saturday morning in January who should I run into but “the tamale lady” right around the corner from our apartment.  Her husband was standing guard (perhaps keeping an eye out for the police as I don’t think she has a vendor license) over their two big shopping carts – one filled with insulated picnic-style carry-alls filled with still warm tamales and the other with shopping bags, aluminum foil, paper plates and plastic utensils and, for all I know, more tamales packed away in the bottom.  I almost lost my cool – I only had $5 in my pocket and didn’t know whether to ask her to stay while I ran to the bank or just take what I could get for my money.  Turns out at $1.25 each I had enough to buy dinner.  Oh, my gosh —– they didn’t wait for dinner – I had polished off one by the time I got home and Steve got one just to keep me from immediately eating another.   They were perfect – not fresh masa – but as I emailed Deena – just the right amount of spicy chicken and grease to make them beyond finger-lickin’ good.  The tamale lady didn’t seem to speak English, but her “Papi” was a terrific salesman.  When I told him I loved pork, he said next week.  I’ll keep you posted if next week comes.

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