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Archive for January, 2012

 

A week ago I cooked up a batch of dried borlotti beans that I had brought home from my favorite bean brokers, the Rancho Gordo (www.ranchogordo.com) stand (see my post, February 17, 2011) at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza market.  Had a pasta dish, had a salad, and still had some beans left.  So, I poured them into a big pan and added all the necessary veggies – a couple of carrots, a zucchini, a large onion, a couple of cloves of garlic, some frozen corn and peas, mushrooms, a red bell pepper, lima beans, a large can of diced tomatoes – to make a mammoth pot of kinda minestrone – I left out the bits of prosciutto or pancetta that would have made it authentic.  Once the veggies had cooked a bit, I added some elbow macaroni (that I always have to make the go-to mac ‘n cheese for my currently vegetarian granddaughter) and a good bit of salt and pepper.  It was 20 degrees outside and the big bowls of soup, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkled with a fresh grating of parmesan cheese couldn’t have been more delicious or more warming when supper rolled around.

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I was asked to make a Sunday dinner when we were visiting friends in Mill Valley (California) last month.  The days had been pretty chilly and damp so the menu was highlighted with a rich, winey beef stew BUT the star of the meal was the fresh porcini salad that began the feast.  The porcini had been foraged from the Marin hills just the day before – they were huge, dense, meaty, earthy, and oh! so delicious.  I gave them a quick sauté in extra virgin olive oil, laid them on some baby spinach leaves, sliced some ricotta salata over the top and drizzled the salad with a Meyer lemon vinaigrette.  What could possibly be better – but it only works when you have a skilled forager knocking on your back door!  I can assure you that this doesn’t happen in New York City.

 

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Whenever we visit San Francisco (which is pretty often), we always hit the Mission for tacos and burritos, shop ‘til we drop at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, grab a quick crab lunch at Swan’s, and have at least one dinner at either of Shelley Lindgren’s restaurants, A16 ( http://www.a16sf.com) or SPQR (www.spqrsf.com).  This last visit we hit both – A16 for pizza just before we caught our plane back to NYC and SPQR for brunch with our delicious granddaughter, Canada.  You can see how much we loved our fried green tomato appetizer by the hugs Canada and I are giving each other – well, we do love each other, too.  SPQR was a special treat as the chef, Matthew Accarrino, is a young guy who began his career with my old buddy, Charlie Palmer, at Aureole in New York.  Just feels as though I have an extended family of cooks spreading great food all across the country.  When you visit San Francisco do put these restaurants on your must-go-to list – you will eat well and be welcomed with exceptional warmth and hospitality.

 

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When we were in San Francisco for Thanksgiving my son, Chris, and I decided to try our hand at sausage making.  Many years ago I had frequently made sausage with my mom using her hand-cranked grinder (which I still have and use), but I had little remembrance of the actual task.  I have no idea where she got the casings we used (perhaps from a local farmer) but Chris got his at the Golden Gate Meat Company ( http://www.goldengatemeatcompany.com) at the Ferry Plaza where we also picked up the chicken and pork we were going to use as the sausage base.

First we tried our hand at a chicken-apple mix.  We sautéed a large sweet onion with just a clove or two of garlic and some minced thyme and sage.  Chris neatly cut a couple of apples into a fine dice.  We ground the chicken and then mixed the cooled cooked onion mix and apples into it and seasoned it well with salt and pepper.  The apple dice was a little bit too big, but we managed to force it into the casing (which we had soaked in lukewarm water for about an hour) through the tube on the Kitchenaid attachment.  From the grimaces on our faces, you’d think we were mining coal.  Didn’t quite have the technique down, but we had some laughs and the sausage tasted pretty darned good.  Good enough that we went on to make a pork sausage seasoned with roasted peppers and basil.

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I’m on an interesting veggie roll – from puntarelle we go to baby red oca yams, also called New Zealand yams.  I had seen them around for awhile but had not tried them.  I was making a pork tenderloin the other afternoon and decided it would be the perfect protein to match with the little yams.  (A bit of arrogance on my part since I had no idea what they would taste like!)

The photo will give a better description that I can.  They are sweet little tubers that, when roasted, were kinda mushy like a baked sweet potato but quite a bit sweeter than the more common cousin.  They were not inexpensive so I’m not sure they going to be my go-to replacement for a good, old-fashioned baked sweet ‘tater, but they were tasty.  Next time, I think I might try them raw in a salad or as an hors d’ sprinkled with sea salt and lime juice.

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