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Archive for November, 2011

 

 

 

When I was little my mom would receive a package from “down south” (I think it was from her friend in Missouri and we lived in Colorado so why “down south” I don’t know) every fall – it was filled with black walnuts.  I hated to see it come ‘cause it meant hard work and blackened hands as we had to use a hammer and vise to hold the nuts and then our hands to extract the meat.  Black walnuts are hard as nails and black as soot.

All of this came back to me the other day when my friend Lynn showed me a bucket of nuts that she had picked up in her yard that she had planned to plant hoping for future trees that would yield their wonderfully hard, dense, and deeply colored wood.  I decided that I would like to save some to use in holiday baking but first I had to show Steve exactly what the process entailed.  I pulled off the outer husk but couldn’t show him the extraction as I want to let the nuts dry a bit.  There is one theory that says that you should remove the outer husk while still green for the sweetest meat and another that says you have to let the outer husk dry and shrivel – I’ll probably do something in between.  Here is an old-fashioned recipe for a great black walnut bar cookie.

 

½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups light brown sugar

1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted plus 2 tablespoons

½ teaspoon baking powder

1½ cups chopped black walnuts

½ cup shredded coconut

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

 

Preheat the oven to 375ºF.

Lightly spray a 9-inch square baking pan with nonstick baking spray.  Set aside.

Place the butter in a medium mixing bowl and, using a hand-held electric mixer, beat until creamy.  Add ½ cup of the brown sugar and beat to blend.  When blended, add the cup of sifted flour and beat until completely mix.

Using your hands, spread the dough over the bottom of the prepared baking pan, making a neat, even layer.

Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 20 minutes or until golden brown and cooked through.

Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack.  Do not turn off the oven.

Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of flour and baking powder in a mixing bowl.  Add the black walnuts and coconut, stirring to blend well.  Set aside.

Place the eggs in a small mixing bowl and again using a hand held electric mixer beat until light.  Add the remaining cup of brown sugar along with the vanilla and beat until light and fluffy.  Scrape into the walnut mixture and, using a wooden spoon, beat to blend well.

Spoon the walnut mixture onto the baked dough, smoothing out to an even layer.  Return the pan to the preheated oven and bake for about 20 minutes or until the topping has set.

Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool slightly before cutting into bars.

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Isn’t bittersweet the saddest word?   Parting can be bittersweet, love can be bittersweet, joy can be bittersweet, and on it goes.  We thought that this one branch of bittersweet berries left on the dying vine said it all – lone, but beautiful – color standing out in the fading fall light.  Winter is coming and it is always bittersweet to say goodbye to the lushness of summer and the glory of fall.

 

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I was so busy at my desk all summer that I didn’t get as much time in the country as I would like.  Normally my desk has an empty chair sitting in front of it during those balmy months when the garden and woods call.  But, while I was toiling at the desk, my best buddy Lynn and my trusty dog pal, Lena Mae, were making sure that I had plenty to do when I moved from the desk to the stove.  They picked so many wild berries (on top of those that they ate) that there was no freezer space left, so this past weekend we emptied the freezers and made 36 jars of wild black and red raspberry jam and a most delicious and burstingly-full wild red raspberry pie.  You can find the recipe for the pastry under an earlier lemon meringue pie post – the filling was simply lots of wild berries, a touch of sugar (we like to really taste the berries), a touch of lemon, and about ¼ cup of tapioca.

 

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I can’t remember the first time I had a pomegranate, but it was a long time ago – much before they became the go-to healthy fruit and juice.  I love the messiness of them.  I’ve heard of all manner of ways to extract the seeds that will keep you nice and tidy, but, to me, part of the thrill is the squirting juice, stained hands, and general mayhem that occurs as you try to pull the fruit apart and pick away at the juicy seeds.  If unlike me you prefer to keep your consumption on the tidy side, you can fill the kitchen sink with cold water, score the skin and then twist the fruit apart under water.  The seeds will fall down and the detritus will rise to the top or you can freeze the whole fruit for a bit – not completely solid – and then twist apart.  The seeds should tumble out.

If you haven’t used pomegranate molasses I urge you to add it to your pantry.  I first discovered it many years ago at Sahadi’s, a wonderful Middle Eastern store in Brooklyn.  Now, I think you can buy it at many supermarkets.  It is an important ingredient in Lebanese cooking and can be used to make drinks as well as to give a lemony-astringent flavor to sauces, marinades, pilafs, glazes, and whatever you think could use a jolt of sweet-sour flavor.

When I did a lot of catering one of my favorite side dishes with pheasant or duck or even chicken was a pomegranate pilaf.  It is very easy to make nowadays as I have seen fresh seeds in the refrigerated produce section of many specialty food and produce stores and even some supermarkets.  The dish is pretty, tasty, and easy to make and will add some zip to a simple dinner of grilled chicken, fish, lamb, or pork.

 

½ cup dried porcini mushrooms

¼ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

¼ cup minced shallots

2 tablespoons minced celery, optional

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 cup basmati rice

½ cup quinoa, well-rinsed and drained

4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth

1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses

1 cinnamon stick

Salt and pepper to taste

1½ cups fresh pomegranate seeds

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

 

Place the mushrooms in a small heatproof container with boiling water to cover by about an inch.  Set aside to soak for 45 minutes.

Drain well.  (If you want to use the soaking liquid as part of the cooking liquid for the rice, by all means do so.  In this case, using a slotted spoon, lift the mushrooms from the soaking liquid and then carefully strain the mushroom soaking liquid through a coffee filter to catch any grit and debris.  Measure and decrease the chicken stock by that amount).  Chop the mushrooms and set them aside.

Combine 1 tablespoon of the olive oil with the butter in a large heavy bottomed saucepan.  Place over medium heat and when hot, stir in the shallots and, if using, the celery.  Cook, stirring frequently, for about 4 minutes or until the shallots are softening.  Stir in the cumin and cardamom along with the reserved chopped mushrooms.  Add the rice and quinoa and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.  Add the stock, molasses, and cinnamon stick, raise the heat, and bring to a boil.  Season with salt and pepper to taste and immediately lower the heat, cover, and cook at a very low simmer for about 20 minutes or until the rice and quinoa are tender.

Remove from the heat and set aside to rest for 5 minutes.

Uncover, remove and discard the cinnamon stick, and fluff in the pomegranate seeds and mint.  Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Sometimes I purchase foods just because I like the way they look and sometimes just ‘cause I like their name and sometimes just because I know Steve will want to photograph them and then there are those more frequent times that I buy something simply because it is exactly what I want to eat at that moment.  The other day it was a little bit of all 4 that led me to buy a few little clumps of hon-shimeji mushrooms at Eataly (eatalayny.com).  They were charming to look at, had a not-easy-to-roll-off-the-tongue name, Steve was chompin’ at the bit to photograph them, and I knew that they would be the prefect addition to a cup of miso soup.  Now, you can share the experience with us.

Miso Mushroom Soup

1 cup dried mushrooms

1 box button mushrooms, cleaned and chopped

1 cup diced carrot

1 cup diced onion

½ cup diced turnip or rutabaga

About ¼ cup white miso

Soy sauce to taste

Couple of clusters of hon-shimeji (or other small, tender) mushrooms

Place the dried mushrooms in a small heatproof bowl.  Cover with boiling water and allow to rehydrate for about 30 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, lift the mushrooms from the soaking liquid and combine them with the button mushrooms, carrot, onion, and turnip in a large pot.  Add 2 quarts of cold water and place over high heat.

Carefully strain the mushroom soaking liquid through a coffee filter to catch any grit and debris; then, add the soaking liquid to the pot.

Bring the broth mixture to a boil; then, lower the heat and cook at a low simmer for about 45 minutes or until the liquid is well-seasoned.

Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve into a large clean saucepan, discarding the solids.

Place over medium heat and bring to a bare simmer.  Stir in half of the miso. Taste and continue adding miso until the broth is a finely balanced mix of mushroom and miso.  If necessary, season with a hit of soy sauce.

Cut a good part of the stem from the hon-shimeji mushrooms.  Place an equal portion of the hon-shimeji into each of 6 to 8 soup bowls (I use beautiful hand-made Japanese tea bowls crafted by a friend).  Fill with the broth and serve piping hot.

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We almost never eat red meat.  Not that we don’t like it but health concerns and doctor’s orders keep it from being served very often in our house.  However, once in a great while there is nothing like a terrific, juicy steak.  I’ve found that the old stove top grill pan does a superb job of marking up the exterior and a finish in a very hot oven brings it right to that point of medium-rare perfection.  I, personally, prefer my steak plain with a good sprinkling of salt and freshly ground pepper but having spent some time working with Delmonico’s Restaurant (visit their web site or pick up my book, Dining at Delmonico’s (with James Canora) at amazon.com) I learned how many people love that melting chunk of butter on top of their steak.  If that’s what you like, here’s a couple of recipes for beurre maître d’hôtel (also known as compound butter to those of us who don’t parlez).  Chefs make up a batch, roll it into a log, wrap it airtight and refrigerate or freeze it.  The log is cut, crosswise, into thick pieces when ready to use.

Basic:  1 pound salted butter, at room temperature, 3 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley, 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

More intensely herby:  Same amount of butter but the parsley should be replaced with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, cilantro, tarragon, sage, or thyme leaves or 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Seasoned:  Use the same amount of unsalted butter seasoned with salt (easy on the salt if using anchovies) and pepper to taste along with 2 teaspoons chopped flat leaf parsley and 2 teaspoons minced garlic or shallots OR 3 minced well-drained canned anchovy filets OR 1 tablespoon freshly grated horseradish OR 1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger.

The mixing should be done by hand to keep the integrity of the add-ins.  It can be done in a food processor, but don’t overmix or the add-ins will completely dissolve into the butter and get cloudy which you don’t want.

 

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I love artichokes as you may have read in past posts.  I like them raw, shaved thin in salads.  I like a single huge one for dinner – sometimes with the leaves dipped in some luscious mix of garlic and mayo or lemon-butter or nothing at all.  I can’t wait to dig into the center and discover fuzzy choke and then on to the meaty bottom.  But I don’t like the frozen or canned variety nor do I like the perennial cocktail party hot artichoke dip.  I only want mine fresh – and nothing is better than traveling down the California coast to artichoke land and picking them up at a farm stand (my mom used to buy them by the bushel for a dollar or two).

I picked up a bunch of baby purple artichokes the other day just to make a kinda salad for my lunch.  Steve, of course, had to photograph them in their pristine glory but then took a quick shot of lunch.  It was very simple – shaved baby artichokes, toasted pine nuts, some little tiny pickled onions I had stashed in the fridge, and, best of all, some fresh croutons made from left over baguette that I cubed and fried in olive oil.  Made a dressing of white balsamic vinegar, a touch of orange juice, and extra virgin olive oil – a perfect lunch!

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As much as I love cut flowers (especially those straight from the garden) in these lean economic times I’ve discovered a new way of adding a note of freshness to our décor.  Well, it’s not exactly a new way for me as I’ve always used veggies or fruits to decorate the dining room table but, until recently, I had never thought about making veggie bouquets in the living room.  The other day a bunch of kale just seemed to say “put us in a vase and enjoy us” which I did.  And, here’s the photo to prove that a bunch of kale is just can brighten your life just as much as a bouquet of roses.

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Years ago when I had a 9 to 5 job, lunch time was our fun time.  Since I was known as “the big boss,” I often got to decide what lunch would be.  I had never been a sandwich lover so I usually chose a foray out to an Italian restaurant or a trip to the local Mexican fiesta, but occasionally I would opt for a quick hop downstairs to see Teddy who owned the little Greek diner on 43rd Street and made the best Egg Salad BLT in the world.  It was piled high with freshly made dill-infused egg salad and then mounded with crisp bacon, Jersey tomatoes, and iceberg lettuce.  If I still ate eggs, it would remain my most favorite sandwich, but, since I am not allowed that indulgence (nor should I be eating bacon) my summer-time favorite sandwich – which we are happy to have for dinner – is an old fashioned BLT – slattered with homemade mayo, slices of juicy farmers market tomatoes and slightly bitter garden lettuce all topped with bacon from Oscar’s Smokehouse “www.oscarssmokedmeats.com”  in Warrensburg, New York.

Steve, on the other hand, loves sandwiches and often has one for breakfast.  Sometimes I pile it high with leftover grilled veggies and some bits and pieces of cheese or meat or sometimes just veggies and often it is just mozzarella, tomato, and balsamic vinaigrette on a baguette.  He particularly loves a muffaletta-style mix on a roll with pickled vegetables, cheeses, and, sometimes, meats which Steve Kolyer has painted for his year-long enjoyment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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