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Archive for July, 2011

Traditional Italian focaccia is based on a centuries old Roman flat bread.  It is usually flavored with olive oil and frequently has herbs either in the dough or sprinkled on top.  It can also be topped with cheese, anything from the onion family, dried meats, or vegetables – in fact, anything the baker likes`.  It is, however, classically done with only olive oil, rosemary, and a sprinkling of coarse salt over the top.

However, for some time I have had in my mind that I had to make fruit focaccia.  I love the dried fruit focaccia at Balthazar Bakery on Spring Street in Manhattan

(www.balthazarbakery.com) but I had in mind to do a fresh fruit one, a soft, spongy slightly salty bread studded with sweet luscious Bing cherries or tiny juicy plums that grow wild in upstate New York.  I was psyched.

So, I made the dough – my first try – but in my excitement I forgot to buy the necessary fruit at the farmers market and since we were in the country I didn’t feel like making the 45 minute trip to the supermarket so instead of fruit focaccia, I made a traditional one.  (This will go down in the recipe log like my Chicken Fried Rice Without Chicken!)  Using cherry tomatoes we had on hand and some rosemary from the pots outside the kitchen door, my first attempt came out so well that it was all eaten before Steve could photograph it.  So, instead we give you our in-house artist Steve Kolyer’s rendition.

9 cups sifted bread flour

Two ¼ ounce packets active-dry yeast

1 tablespoon salt

3 ¾ cups water

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

Olive oil for greasing pans

 

Combine the bread flour with the yeast and salt in the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with the hook.  Add the water and mix on low speed until blended.

Raise the speed to medium and continue to mix until the dough is smooth and shiny. Mix in the olive oil and beat until fully incorporated.

Line 2 half sheet pans with parchment paper.  Lightly coat both sides of the paper with olive oil. Lightly flour a clean, flat work surface.

Scrape the dough onto the floured surface and then divide it into two equal pieces. Place a piece of dough into the center of each of the prepared sheet pans, gently rounding the edges. Cover with plastic film and set aside to ferment for 3 hours.

Working with one piece at a time, uncover and carefully stretch the dough out to cover the entire pan. Using your fingertips, gently dot the top of the dough with shallow holes (In professional bread making this is called dimpling and it serves to create little pockets to hold the olive oil and keep the bread moist and soft).  Drizzle the top with extra virgin olive oil, coarse salt, herbs, or any thing you like, such as whole cherry tomatoes, anchovies, chopped onions, or garlic.  Cover with plastic film and let rest for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Uncover the dough and transfer the pans to the preheated oven.  Bake for 25 minutes or until the crust is golden-brown.

Remove from the oven and transfer to wire racks to cool.

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Saw a great batch of green beans in the farmers market the other day that I couldn’t resist.  We had some for dinner, put some in a Salade Niçoise, and still had enough to pickle a couple of jars.  I hadn’t made pickled green beans for years but it is a simple recipe to execute and since I only put together a couple of jars I didn’t have to really worry about proper canning – I will just store them in the fridge as we will use them up quickly as a snack or side at dinner.  You can use this same recipe to pickle carrots or other vegetables, also.  It should yield about three 4-ounce jars.

2 pounds very fresh green beans (preferably organic) or

haricots vert, stem end  removed, well-washed

 1 cup white vinegar

¼ cup water

 ¼ cup sugar

2 teaspoons mustard seeds

1 teaspoon celery seed

1 teaspoon dried red chile flakes or to taste

½ teaspoon coarse salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

6 whole peeled garlic cloves

3 sprigs fresh dill

             Place the beans in a large pot of cold salted water.  Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil.  Lower the heat and simmer for about 4 minutes or until crisp-tender.  Immediately remove from the heat, drain well, and place in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and set the color.

When cool, remove from the ice water and pat very dry.  Set aside.

Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, chile flakes, and salt in a medium non-reactive pan over high heat.  Bring to a boil; then, lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.  Remove from the heat and stir in the chopped dill.

Fit the beans into the jars, vertically.  Add 2 garlic cloves and 1 sprig of dill to each jar.  Then, pour the hot vinegar solution into each jar, covering the beans completely while leaving about a ¼ inch of headroom.  If you do not plan long storage, the beans may be cooled and stored in the refrigerator for up to a month or so.

If longer storage is desired, place the jars in a large pot or canner with a rack placed in the bottom.  Cover with cold water by at least 2 inches and place over high heat.  Cover and bring to a boil.  Boil, covered, for 10 minutes.

Using tongs, remove the jars from the canner and set aside on a wire rack to cool before storing.  May be stored for up to 1 year, but are best served within 6 months.

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I picked up some beautiful sorrel at the farmers market this past week, mainly because it was such a glorious bright green, pointy-leafed and spiky.  I thought it would make a great centerpiece for the dining room table – a trick I use to brighten the meal and still be able to eat the décor at a later date.  I had remembrances of a wonderful vichyssoise-like sorrel soup in France but, since most of the recent sorrel soups I have been served have been stringy and not very appetizing I didn’t think that I would use it.  (I’m not even much of a fan of the commercially-bottled shav {also called shav borscht}, a traditional Jewish soup made from sorrel and often served at Passover.  It is rarely made at home since it is available from many supermarkets).  However economy told me that I shouldn’t waste it, so after the sorrel had debuted as a centerpiece, I decided to try my hand at turning it into a chilled summer soup.

If you don’t know sorrel, it has a piquant lemony flavor and a striking green color.  It is actually a herb and a member of the buckwheat family and is traditionally used for soup throughout Eastern Europe.  It is usually only available in the spring at farmers markets.  Rarely have I seen it in the supermarket and even specialty produce shops seem to ignore it.  It’s stringiness can be off-putting, but when it is cooked, puréed, and strained you have a wonderfully-inviting, cream-like, tart, refreshing soup that can be served hot or cold – the latter being my preference.  And here’s the recipe to try should you find yourself with a bunch or two of fresh, lively sorrel leaves.

            3 tablespoons unsalted butter

            1 tablespoon grapeseed oil

2 shallots, peeled and chopped

            1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped

            1 pound fresh sorrel, well-washed and chopped

            3 large fresh mint leaves plus about 1 tablespoon chopped mint leaves for garnish

            1 large cooked, peeled russet potato, diced

            5 cups chicken stock

            Salt and pepper to taste

            1 cup heavy cream, at room temperature

            ½ teaspoon green Tabasco sauce

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.  When hot, add the shallots and garlic and sauté for 3 or so minutes or until softened.  Add the sorrel and mint leaves and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes or until the sorrel changes to a dark green color.  Add the potato and chicken stock and season with salt and pepper to taste.  Bring to a boil and then remove from the heat.

Working in batches, pour the hot soup into a blender and, holding down the lid with a kitchen towel, process to a smooth purée.

When all of the soup has been puréed, pour it through a fine mesh sieve into a clean container to eliminate any stringy bits.  This is pretty important ‘cause I find that the consistency can be a bit slimy if this step is eliminated

If serving hot, return the strained purée to a clean saucepan and place over low heat.  Stir in the cream and Tabasco sauce.  Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.  Cook, stirring, just until hot.  Remove from the heat and serve.

If serving cold, do not return the purée to the saucepan.  Pour into a container with a lid, stir in the cream and Tabasco, cover, and refrigerate for at least an hour to chill.

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Lately I seem to be on a bok choy kick, but who could resist this absolutely flowery bunch of purple bok choy that found its way into the kitchen?   I was going to incorporate it into some fried rice but decided it was just too pretty to not stand on its own.  So, I cut it into pieces and quickly sautéed it in a bit of grapeseed oil and butter, seasoned it with salt and pepper, and cooked it just until it wilted.  I added a good measure of ponzu sauce that I found in the fridge, gave it a toss, and served it up as a side to soft shell crab sandwiches we had made from our leftovers.  A simple, easy, and very tasty dish.

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My son, Mickey, remembers my mother’s lemon meringue pie with such intensity that I have never made one for him – don’t want to risk failure.  But after years and years of avoiding it I finally decided to take a stab at duplicating my mother’s famous pie.  Since Mickey wasn’t around I didn’t have anyone to judge the result based on the “real thing” so I really didn’t have much to lose.  Though I have to admit I was more than ready to judge myself but fortunately the end result was pretty darn good.

I have been working at perfecting my pastry – not that I haven’t made okay pastry – but it has never brought mom immediately to mind.  I think that I’ve finally nailed it and I hope that I will inspire you to try your hand at what I think is, after brownies and chocolate chip cookies, the quintessential American dessert – even more than apple.  This recipe is a combination of the recipes used by my mom and my Aunt Frances, now departed but remembered always through their love of feeding family and friends.

A further note about the pastry.  When making savory pies and tarts, I do use lard which you can order online or purchase at most farmers markets (I get mine directly from Gaia’s Breath Farm and you can email them at mtoro@wildblue.net).  Whether to use vegetable shortening or butter is your choice – I combine them – sometimes using more butter than shortening when making open-faced French-style fruit tarts.

½ recipe My Near-Perfect Pie Pastry

1 egg white

Lemon Filling:

1½ cups sugar

¼ cup cornstarch

⅛ teaspoon salt

Juice of 3 lemons

3 large eggs, separated, at room temperature (you will use the whites for the

            meringue)

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest

Aunt Frances’ Never-Fail Meringue

Preheat the oven to 400ºF.

Lightly flour a clean, flat surface.  Place the chilled dough in the center and, using a rolling pin, begin rolling the dough out to a circle about 10- to 12-inches to fit into the bottom of a 9-inch pie pan, leaving an edge for fluting.

Transfer the dough to the pie pan and carefully push on it to make a neat fit, leaving the edges overhanging the pan.  Fold the excess dough under the edge and then, using your thumb and forefinger, crimp the dough into a decorative edge.  Using a table fork, randomly prick the bottom the pie shell.

Place the one egg white into a small bowl and whisk in 1 tablespoon of cold water.  Using a pastry brush lightly coat the bottom of the pie shell with egg white wash.

Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit the pie pan and fit it into the shell.  Layer the bottom with pie weights, dried beans or rice.  Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 15 minutes or until the pastry has set and is lightly browned.

Remove from the oven and set aside on a wire rack to cool.

Do not turn off the oven.

Combine the sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan.  Stir in 1¾ cups of cold water and place over medium heat.  Cook, stirring constantly, for about 6 minutes or until thickened.  Stir in the lemon juice and remove from the heat.

Place the egg yolks in a small bowl and gradually whisk in about ½ cup of the lemon mixture to temper.  Quickly whisk the egg yolk mixture back into the hot lemon mixture.  Return to medium heat and, whisking constantly, beat in the butter and lemon zest.  Cook for another couple of minutes or until thick.  Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

While the pastry and filling are cooling, make the meringue.

When cooled slightly, pour the filling into the pastry shell, smoothing out the top with an offset spatula.

Spoon most of the meringue on top of the center of the filling and spoon small amounts of the remaining meringue around the edges.  Using a spatula or wide knife, gently spread the meringue out from the center to meet the edge, making sure that the entire top is covered and the edge is sealed.

Place the pie into the preheated oven and bake for about 10 minutes or until the meringue is golden brown.

Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for at least 30 minutes before cutting.

My Near-Perfect Pie Pastry

Enough dough for one double-crust 9-inch pie

            2 ½ cups all-purpose flour, sifted

            ¼ teaspoon salt

            Pinch sugar

            ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon vegetable shortening, chilled

            ½ cup unsalted butter, cut into cubes and chilled

            ½ cup ice water

Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade.  Process to aerate and blend.

Add the shortening and butter and, using quick on and off turns, process just until crumbly.  With the motor running, add the water and process just until the dough begins to ball.

Scrape the dough from the processor bowl and divide it into two equal pieces.  Wrap each piece in plastic film and refrigerate for about 30 minutes to chill before rolling.  The dough may also be frozen; thaw before using.

Aunt Frances’ Never-Fail Meringue

            1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold water

            3 large egg whites

            6 tablespoons superfine sugar

Combine the cornstarch mixture with ½ cup cold water in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Cook, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes or until the liquid is clear.  Remove from the heat and set in a pan of ice water to cool quickly.  Stir frequently to keep the mixture liquid.

Place the egg whites in the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with the whip.  Begin beating on low to froth.  Increase the speed and continue to beat, alternately adding the cooled cornstarch mixture and the sugar, beating until stiff and shiny.

Use a directed in the pie recipe or for any dessert requiring a stiff meringue.

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