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Archive for January, 2011

Waffles for Dinner?

 

For a project still formulating, I have been working on some ideas that I hope will put some interesting meals on the dinner table.  When I was a girl, my mom and I would occasionally have waffles for dinner – complete with a side of bacon and lots of maple syrup just as we would normally have for a weekend breakfast.  Thinking about this sweet dinner, I wondered about turning it into a savory experience.  My dear husband, being happy to eat whatever I come up with, was game so the other night we had grainy waffles with a mushroom ragout for dinner.  The waffles were based on my sweet recipe (straight from mom’s kitchen) while the ragout was put together with whatever I had on hand.  They were a big hit – so much so, we asked the neighbors in to share.  And, here ‘tis for you!

 

2 cups all-purpose flour

½ cup rolled oats

¼ cup cornmeal

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon each salt and pepper

2 large eggs, separated

2 cups 2% milk

¼ cup olive oil

Mushroom Ragout

 

Combine the flour, oats, cornmeal, baking powder, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl.

Combine the egg yolks with the milk and olive oil.  Set aside.

Using a hand held electric mixer, beat the egg whites until they hold soft peaks.

Add the egg yolk mixture to the dry ingredients and again, using the mixer, beat to just combine.  When blended, fold in the beaten egg whites to just barely incorporate.

Heat a waffle iron.  Add batter according to manufacturer’s directions and bake until golden brown and crisp.

Serve with the ragout on the side or over the top.

Easy Mushroom Ragout

 

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large shallots, peeled and minced

1 clove garlic, peeled and minced

4 cups sliced mushrooms – any type will do

1½ cups chicken stock or low sodium, low-fat chicken broth

1 tablespoon tomato paste

Dried thyme, salt, and pepper to taste

1 cup shredded beet greens, kale, mustard greens, or Swiss chard

 

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.  Add the shallots and garlic and sauté for about 3 minutes or until just soft.

Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes or until the mushrooms have exuded moisture and begun to color.

Add the chicken stock and tomato paste, stirring to blend well.  Season thyme, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes or until the mushrooms are quite soft and the mix is nicely flavored.

Stir in the greens and cook for an additional couple of minutes to just wilt.  Serve warm.

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When company’s coming, my first plan of attack is to get dessert done.  When I want to make a splash, I check out my friend’s sites, Tish Boyle Sweet Dreams or Baking Style Diary by Lisa Yockelson, for always delicious recipes that actually work (something that can’t always be said about recipes posted on web sites).  My usual winter company dinners are rich, filling stews or braises that I don’t want to end with an over-the-top dessert.  So, over the years, I have come to rely on poached pears to bail me out.

You can make the poaching liquid out of almost anything – red wine, white wine, fruit juices, cider, even water if you have some citrus to add a little flavor.  You just need enough liquid to cover the pears completely and a pan of a size that will hold them standing straight up or one in which the fruit can be completely submerged with a lid keeping the fruit totally covered.  The amount of liquid you need will depend upon the size of the pan you use.

I prefer a highly spiced poaching liquid – I usually use red wine with some added orange juice and lots of black peppercorns, fresh ginger, bay leaf, cinnamon sticks, coriander, and citrus peel.  I sweeten with brown sugar.  I save the liquid and reuse it a number of times, but I generally take off a cup or so and boil it down to a syrup to garnish the finish dish.  And, sometimes, I brush the poached pears with the syrup and then bake them to a lovely burnished sheen.

You can serve the pears like plain Janes or drizzle them with the reduced poaching liquid, dress them up with sauces (Crème Anglaise works beautifully) or cream cheeses, such as mascarpone or a rich, runny brie, or whatever works for you.  If you have poached them in white wine and they remain pale in color, they look wonderful floating on a circle of bittersweet chocolate sauce.

No matter what I choose, I usually add some cookies – ginger, if I have them.  If not, I cut homemade (or homemade-style if I don’t have my own on hand) white bread into little rectangles, butter it prodigiously, sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar and bake until crisp.  Who’s to know that I didn’t spend a day in the kitchen baking away?

Poached Pears

Makes 6

6 Bosc pears with stems

4 to 6 cups red or white wine

2 cups orange juice

1 cup light brown sugar or to taste

Here is where you’re on your own – black peppercorns, cinnamon sticks, bay leaves, coriander, ginger -  I use about 1 tablespoon peppercorns, 2 cinnamon sticks, 4 bay leaves, 1 teaspoon coriander, an inch or so of fresh ginger, a few strips of orange and lemon peel OR whatever I have on hand

Carefully peel the pears, keeping the stems intact.  Place them in acidulated water

(cold water with the juice of a lemon in it).  This will keep them from discoloring as you finish up the whole batch.  Carefully cut a small piece off of the blossom end so that the pear will stand up straight.

Combine the wine, juice, sugar, and seasonings in a nonreactive saucepan (as discussed).   Bring to a simmer over medium heat.  Add the pears, standing them upright, if possible.  Cover and bring to a simmer.  Uncover and simmer, taking care that the fruit remains submerged, for about 30 minutes or until pears are tender but remain firm.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the poaching liquid.  If using within a couple of hours, let stand at room temperature.  If not, store, in the poaching liquid, covered and refrigerated.

When ready to serve, remove from the liquid and gently pat dry.  I sometimes let the pears sit for about 30 minutes on a double layer of paper towel so they don’t weep on the serving plate.

Serve the pears, as is, or garnish the plate with a sauce or cheese and pass cookies on the side.

 

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Newsom’s Country Ham

 

Back in July I was lamenting about my inability to get a holiday ham from Col. Bill Newsom’s Aged Kentucky Country Hams (www.newsomscountryham.com or Newsom’s Old Mill Store, 208 East Main Street, Princeton, Kentucky 42445, 270-365-2482).  The late Col. Bill was a nephew of my uncle by marriage (a friend was teasing me the other day saying “you always say, he/she is a cousin, a cousin by marriage, a second cousin once removed – in other words, everyone you know is a relative).  When Col. Bill’s daughter, Nancy Mahaffey, got wind of my lamenting, I was put on the list for a Christmas ham.

Came the week before Christmas and, as promised, the UPS guy delivered my ham.  Let me tell you when I opened the package, I was floored.  The ham weighed in at 13.74 pounds but it looked like it weighed 50!  I had no idea what container I had that would hold the bugger completely covered in cold water for the 12 to 18 hour soak required.  I ended up scrubbing my kitchen garbage can which served very nicely, thank you.

The cooking procedure began a couple of days before the 24th.  I did just as I was told, soaked the ham in cold water for 12 hours, washed the soaked ham with a mixture of warm water and white vinegar, scrubbed it with a wire brush, and then placed it a large roasting pan along with some water, vinegar, and brown sugar, covered it with foil, and baked it for almost 6 hours (25 minutes per pound said the directions).  Then, I cut off the skin, glazed it with a mustard/honey/orange zest mix, covered the glaze with bread crumbs, and then baked it again to a nice golden crust.  When all was said and done, I had a beautiful ham that could feed a multitude.  It’s quite salty and must be very, very thinly sliced (think prosciutto) so only a wee portion was consumed on Christmas Eve.  I’ve shared the leftovers with many and we will still be eating ham and red eye gravy breakfasts, ham salad, ham sandwiches, omelets, and Hot Browns (when I make them I will write more about these classic Kentucky sandwiches) for weeks.

Next on our list is Nancy’s prosciutto, country bacon and/or sausage although the smoked, peppered pork and “Preacher Ham” sound pretty good, too.

 

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I’m still blabbing about our fall trip to San Francisco.  There are 2 things we always do almost as soon as we arrive – visit Swan Oyster Depot (1517 Polk Street, 415-673-1101) and go to the Mission for Cal-Mex burritos.  They couldn’t be farther apart financially but they are both about on par with long lines and equally ardent supporters or detractors.  We, obviously, sit on the supporters side of the fence.  Swan’s has been around for years and years – never deviating from simple, straightforward service and food.  Just oysters, clams, salads and cocktails of shrimp, prawns, or Dungeness crab, chowder, smoked trout or salmon, wine, soft drinks, and sour dough bread.  If in season, I always have half a crab – the group always has oysters and/or clams and with whatever else they choose, but it is always SOS (sauce on the side).  We all love the each of the guys who serve as raconteur/owner/historian/waiter.  Baseball is huge so I always get a few words in about the old San Francisco Seals and their manager, Lefty O’Doul, who was a favorite of my mom.

Among other things, Swan Oyster Depot is famous for their Shrimp (tiny, pale salmon color curlicues – the big guys are called prawns) or Crab Louie.  The louie part is the dressing, a mayonnaise-based sauce rather like Russian Dressing.  Here is my version of that dressing.  Some people add chopped olives and/or chopped scallions, but this simple recipe reminds me of my childhood iceberg lettuce wedge with pale pink dressing sliding down the slope.

 

Louie Dressing for Shrimp, Crab, or Lobster Cocktail or Salad

Makes about 2 cups

 

1 cup fine quality mayonnaise

½ cup bottled chili sauce

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

¼ teaspoon Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce

¼ cup sweet pickle relish

 

Combine the mayo, chili sauce, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and Tabasco in a small bowl, whisking to blend thoroughly.  Fold in the relish.  Taste and, if necessary, add more lemon juice and Tabasco.

 

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I love, love, love Dungeness crab.  When I was a child, my brother would go down to Fisherman’s Wharf – this was when it still was a fisherman’s wharf – and buy a bucket load of live crabs for a couple of dollars.  Sometimes he would have them steamed and sometimes my mom would boil them at home.  This was usually done on a Friday night – newspapers were spread out on the floor and sliced lemons and a big green salad were placed in the center.  Sour dough bread was warmed, sliced, and wrapped in a towel.  Each of us – we usually had a crowd – got their own crab, crackers, and pick.  The feasting began.  This is probably my most memorable childhood meal.

To replicate it, on our last trip to San Francisco, we took a trip to the Ferry Plaza and bought fresh crabs at the San Francisco Fish Company (www.sanfranfish.com) – and not for a couple of bucks – along with sour dough bread from Acme Bakery (415-288-2978).  We took it all back to our son’s apartment where Chris boiled up the crabs in a big vat of beer-flavored water and I tossed a great green salad.  What a feast we had.  I wish that I could share the video with you – we all look like participants in a Jane Goodall documentary as Chris didn’t have the proper tools so we were cracking the shells with a mallet and picking out the crab meat with bamboo skewers – the intensity and focus were not too far removed from Ms. Goodall’s apes.

 

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Ringing In The New Year

 

I don’t know if you are like me but I was sure happy to see 2010 go on its merry way – even though, as happens every New Year’s Day, I get to turn a year older.  I thought that the following photo signifies our joy – what could be better than oysters and champagne to salute the year gone and the year to come?  The oyster pictured comes from Mickey, my eldest son.  It is his version of a pickled oyster dish from Thomas Keller’s much-lauded The French Laundry Cookbook.  I think that Mick might be the only home cook that regularly uses Chef Keller’s inspirational tome and we certainly benefit.  Along with the marvelous oyster/caviar treat we had both a Henriot Brut NV as well as a Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé.  Not too shabby, eh?  I send this along to all of you with our deepest wishes for a healthy and prosperous 2011 filled much joy and all the things that you wish for.

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