This is a recipe that I first used in a book called HOT! The Cookbook for Passionate Devotees Who Go Bonkers Over The Incendiary Pleasures of Food That Never Stops Whamming, Popping, or Zapping.   And, no I didn’t come up with that title!  I don’t know that I’ve ever seen another recipe quite like it.  I learned my earlier version from a friend who had learned it from her Sicilian grandfather.  For years, I used the hot Anaheim chiles that the original called for but I now use sweet little multi-colored peppers which make the end result far easier to eat with on a more frequent basis.  You do need some type of closed crock and patience as it will take about 3 months for the peppers to be ready for eating.  They do, however, keep for quite a long time – even without refrigeration  – as long as they are kept covered and in a cool place.  I will give you the original recipe but you can, of course, cut the ingredients to a more manageable amount or use the sweet little peppers that I now use as seen in the accompanying photos.

The finished chiles or peppers make a wonderful addition to an antipasto or meze platter or are a great component to a stacked sandwich.

When I put this together the other day, I just made a small crock’s worth so I threw the remaining peppers in a pan with some olive oil and garlic.  I covered the pan and placed it over medium-low heat long enough to extract a lot of the water – about 20 minutes or so.  Then, I transferred it to a very hot oven and roasted the peppers for about 10 minutes or so which caramelized the sugars and charred the edges a bit.  They were sweet and yummy delicious!

½ bushel hot Anaheim chiles or other long, green hot chiles (or small sweet

peppers), washed, stemmed, and split, lengthwise, down one side

2 anchovy fillets per chile (approximately 250)

Approximately 6 cups coarse salt

Olive oil

Working with one chile (or pepper) at a time, place 2 achovy fillets into the opening in each chile.

As stuffed, carefully place the chiles in a neat layer in the bottom of a ceramic crock.  Cover the layer with about ½ cup of salt.  Continue making layers and salting them until all chiles have been used and crock is full.

Place a wooden block or heavy plate on top of the final layer of salted chiles.  Top with a brick or heavy stone to push the chiles down as they exude their liquid as the salt will extract water.  This extraction of liquid is one way that the chiles will be preserved.  As the liquid comes to the surface, pour it off daily.  It will take approximately 2 weeks for all of the liquid to be extracted from the chiles.

When no liquid can be poured off, cover the chiles will enough olive oil to cover by about ½-inch.  Again cover the crock with a wooden block or heavy plate.  Store in a cool, dark spot for at least 3 months before eating.

After 3 months, the chiles can be removed from the crock and placed in sterilized jars.  Cover with the marinating olive oil, adding additional, if necessary.  Cover and store in a cool, dark spot or the refrigerator for up to 6 months.

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For me, it’s a tie between tomatoes and corn on the cob for summer’s blue ribbon winner.  The wonderful thing about both of them is that it takes so little to bring them to their heights.  After last summer’s terrible cold, rainy season (along with a blight that hit east coast tomato gardens) which left us longing for a juicy tomato and a sweet ear of corn, it has been a delight to bring the bounty of this summer to the table.

We have enjoyed corn on the cob almost every night – sometimes on the grill and sometimes from the steaming pot on top of the stove.  Either way is easy to do and easy to enjoy.  Particularly because I don’t like to insult my corn with butter or seasonings.  (Well, once in awhile I will drizzle on a little Tabasco and then rub it in with a piece of lime.)  I have to keep reminding myself that there are so many other things to do with corn, particularly when it is at its sweetest.  I love corn fritters, soufflés, puddings, salsas, pancakes, salads, relishes, and I have even tried it in ice cream (which wasn’t bad).  However, my favorite is corn chowder, but I often don’t make it in the summer ‘cause it seems just too rich for a warm summer’s meal.  But, this week brought heavy rains and cooler temperatures so I went right at it.  Try it – I think that I make a pretty tasty chowder!

Corn Chowder

Serves 6 to 8

10 ears fresh corn, shucked

6 cups whole milk

3 cups chicken stock or low sodium, fat-free canned chicken broth

½ pound slab bacon, cut into small dice

3 leeks, some green part, well-washed and finely diced

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, membrane removed, and finely diced

¾ pound potatoes, peeled and cut into a medium dice

Salt and pepper to taste

Using a sharp knife or corn kernel remover, remove all of the kernels from the corn cobs, separately reserving the kernels and cobs.

Combine the cobs with the milk and stock in a large pot.  Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer.  Simmer for 15 minutes.

While the cobs are infusing the liquid, place the bacon in a medium frying pan over low heat.  Fry, stirring occasionally, for about 12 minutes or until the bacon bits are brown and crisp.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the pan and place on a double layer of paper towel to drain.

Pour off most of the bacon fat from the pan and return it to medium heat.  Add the leeks and bell pepper and sauté for about 4 minutes or just until slightly softened.  Again,

using a slotted spoon, remove the vegetables from the pan and place on a double layer of paper towel to drain.

Remove the cobs from the liquid and place on a platter to rest until cool enough to handle.

Add the potatoes along with the leeks and bell pepper to the liquid.  Season with salt (remembering the bacon and its fat) and lots of black pepper.  Bring to a simmer; then lower the heat and cook at a bare simmer for about 12 minutes or until the potatoes are just about soft.

Using a sharp knife, scrape the cooled cobs to extract all of the milky residue from the kernels.  Add the residue to the liquid.

Add the reserved corn kernels to the simmering soup.  Raise the heat and bring to a simmer.  Simmer for 5 minutes or until the kernels are just tender.

Remove about 2 cups of the soup from the pan and transfer to a blender.  Process to a rough pureé.  Return the pureé to the pan and simmer for another 5 minutes.

Remove from the heat and stir in the reserved bacon bits.  Taste and, if necessary, season with additional salt and pepper.

Serve hot, garnished with a bit of whipped cream, sour cream, yogurt, minced chives, or more crisp bacon.

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Serves 6 to 8

This salad has always been one of my favorite additions to a picnic.  It is a Midwestern classic very rarely seen anymore, except in a supermarket jar.  Although memories of the 1950s have it made with canned green and yellow beans, I always use fresh.  This year, the beans have been particularly good – not only green and yellow beans but haricots verts have been at the farmers market.  Haven’t seen many lima beans – my very favorite – but hopefully the end of August will bring them to market.

Three bean salad keeps very well so I always make quite a bit, but you can make just as much as you think will satisfy.  I generally use an equal amount of all of the  beans.  If I am making a large batch, I will cook the kidney beans from scratch, but, if not, I’ll just open a can or two.  You can also use garbanzo beans (aka chick peas) or cannellini beans in place of the kidney beans.

About ½ pound green beans, washed, stemmed, and cut into pieces (about 1 to

1½-inches)

About ½ pound yellow wax beans, washed, stemmed, and cut into pieces (about 1

to 1½-inches)

2 cups cooked kidney beans

¼ cup finely diced onion

½ cup white or vinegar

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 clove garlic

3 tablespoons sugar

Combine the green and yellow beans with the kidney beans in a mixing bowl.  Stir in the onion.

Combine the vinegar and oil in a blender.  Add the garlic and sugar and process to blend well.

Pour the dressing over the beans and season with salt and pepper.  Toss to combine.  Cover and let marinate for at least an hour before serving.

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I spent another hot Sunday afternoon in the kitchen, my favorite place to be.  This one was spent making Steve’s favorite pepper relish.  My mom introduced him to it and, of course, hers was much better than mine could ever possibly be!  But, time passes and with no mom to make it, my relish has to suffice as the zest needed to brighten grilled chicken or meat or add flavor to a winter’s everyday lunch sandwich or salad.

Bought the peppers straight from the field at Parson’s Farm Stand in Sharon Springs, New York.  When I told Kenyon, the farmer, that I needed 18 of each color along with 16 onions, out to the fields we went so I wouldn’t deplete the stock piled in baskets on the stand.  Could anything be fresher?  I don’t think so!  They were so beautiful that we started thinking about other things to do with them – a lovely sweet pepper bisque, some roasted peppers with mozzarella and evo and crusty bread, grilled with a hunk of salmon or a chicken breast, and the 1940s favorite Stuffed Bell Peppers.  Once the latter came to mind we decided to go back to Kenyon later in the week and give the old school lunchroom special a place on our retro-menu.

Makes about sixteen 8-ounce jars

18 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and membrane removed

18 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and membrane removed

16 medium onions, peeled and cut into chunks

4 hot red or green chiles, stems and seeds removed

8 cups (2 quarts) white vinegar

5½ cups sugar

2 tablespoons coarse or pickling salt

Run the peppers, onions, and chiles through the medium blade of a food grinder or, alternately, through a food processor fitted with the shredding blade.

Place the pepper mixture into a large heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water.  Let stand for 5 minutes.  Drain well, discarding the liquid.

Transfer the pepper mixture to a large canning kettle or stockpot.  Add 4 cups of the vinegar and 4 cups of cold water.  Place over high heat and bring to a boil.  Immediately remove from the heat and drain well, discarding the liquid.

Return the pepper mixture to the kettle and add the remaining 4 cups of vinegar along with the sugar and salt.  Place over high heat and bring to a simmer.  Lower the heat and continue to cook at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes.

Remove from the heat and pack into hot, sterilized jars.  Seal and let cool before storing.

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Serves 6

2½ pounds cherry or pear tomatoes, cored and cut in half, lengthwise OR

plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced

1 medium red onion, peeled and finely diced

¼ bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, chopped

½ teaspoon ground sumac

6 tablespoons fruity extra virgin olive oil

¼ pound ricotta salata, crumbled

Coarse salt and cracked black pepper to taste

Combine the tomatoes, onions, parsley, and sumac in a large container.  Add the olive oil, tossing to coat well.  Toss in the cheese and let stand 5 minutes.

Taste and season with salt and cracked black pepper.

Store, covered and refrigerated.

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Serves 6 to 8

When the bounty of the garden gets overwhelming and I get tired of grilling the sweet, just-pulled carrots it produces, I will usually devise a salad.  This is tasty when first made but also keeps well.  It gives a lovely hint of color to a plate of salumi or a meze platter to be served at cocktail time with chilled rosé.

1½ pounds carrots, peeled and sliced, crosswise, into ¼-inch thick slices

4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

½ cup finely diced sweet onions

⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil

⅓ cup white vinegar

¼ cup minced flat-leaf parsley

¼ cup minced cilantro

Blanch the carrots in boiling, salted water for about 2 minutes or until crisp tender.  Immediately drain and rinse in cold, running water to stop the cooking.  Pat dry and transfer to a large container.

Combine the garlic, onion, oil, and vinegar in a food processor fitted with the metal blade.  Process until finely chopped.

Pour the mixture over the carrots.  Add the parsley and cilantro and toss to combine.  Let marinate for a few minutes before serving.  Store, covered and refrigerated.

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The other day reminiscing about my mom and her bridge club – a group of ladies who met weekly for gossip and a couple of games of bridge – I got to thinking about the table she sat for the accompanying lunch.  First of all, the bridge tables were covered in matching cloths and there was a small glass ashtray and a cigarette holder (usually a small glass top hat) and pretty matches at 2 opposing corners.  These were the days when emancipated women smoked discretely and, occasionally, took a little tipple after the game.  The lunch table was always beautifully set with the tableware that was used solely for entertaining and a lovely bouquet in the center with name plates and a little gift at each place setting.  My absolute favorites were the little sugar cubes with flower decoration that she served with coffee and tea.  I thought it all pretty classy!  Looking back, I have no idea how she did all this as, unlike all of the other women, she was a widow who worked 6 days a week.

This is, I know, a very long introduction to the lunch that I made in remembrance of mom’s bridge club.  I would normally just pile the stuffing into the tomatoes but a first-class bridge lady would definitely add a little garní.  I did zip up the dressing a bit – my mom would have just used mayonnaise and, probably, chicken.  I used shrimp ‘cause I was cleaning out the freezer and they were there.

Tomatoes Stuffed with Shrimp Salad

Serves 6

6 large ripe tomatoes

Salt

1½ pounds cooked shrimp, shells and tails removed

¼ cup finely diced sweet onion, such as Vidalia

¼ cup finely diced celery

1 cup homemade mayonnaise (recipe follows) or Hellman’s if it pleases you

½ cup mango chutney, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest

White pepper to taste

2 teaspoons fresh mint julienne

1 teaspoon fresh tarragon leaves

Six handfuls fresh garden lettuce

6 sprigs fresh mint, optional

Line a plate or baking pan large enough to hold the 6 tomatoes with a thick layer of paper towel.  Set aside.

Using a sharp knife, carefully cut off a ¼-inch slice from the stem end.  Using a small spoon or melon baller, carefully scoop out the seeds and pulp from each tomato.  Lightly salt the interiors, turn upside down on the paper towel-lined plate or baking pan, and refrigerate for about 1 hour or until well-chilled and most of the juices have run out.

While the tomatoes are chilling, prepare the salad.

If you want to garnish the finished tomatoes with a piece of shrimp, carefully cut 3 shrimp in half, lengthwise.  Set them aside.

Cut the remaining shrimp into pieces and place them in a bowl.  Add the onion and celery, tossing to combine.

Mix the mayonnaise, chutney, lime juice, and orange zest together.  Pour about half of the dressing over the shrimp and toss to combine.  Continue adding dressing until you have the consistency you desire.  Season with salt and white pepper to taste.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

When ready to serve, remove the tomatoes from the fridge.  Turn the tomatoes right side up.

Remove the shrimp from the fridge and stir in the mint and tarragon.  (You can do this when you first make the salad but, although the herbs will more add more of their distinct flavor they will also wilt considerably.  I prefer the fresh taste that results when they are added at the end.)

Mound an equal portion of the salad into each tomato.

Place a small handful of lettuce on each of six luncheon plates.  Settle a stuffed tomato in the center of each plate and, if desired, garnish with a shrimp slice and sprig of fresh mint.

Serve immediately.

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Makes about 1½ cups

By the time I came along, my mom no longer made her mayonnaise weekly except on those weeks that it was her day to host her bridge club.  She always put the egg yolks, mustard, and salt in a large, flat soup bowl and whisked them together with a fork.  Very, very gradually, she would add oil – I would guess it must have been some kind of vegetable oil – whisking vigorously to emulsify the mix.  Lastly she would whisk in the cayenne, taste, and, if the mayonnaise was too thick for her liking, beat in a little lemon juice.  She never added more salt but that was probably because she knew exactly how much salt to add in the beginning.  I often make my own mayonnaise but, like as not, it is quickly put together in the small bowl of my trusty food processor.  Easy to do and always works IF you very gradually beat in the oil.  This quicker method will yield a mayonnaise that will be slightly looser than the hand-whisked version.

2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

½ teaspoon dry mustard powder

Salt to taste

1 cup fine quality olive oil (not extra virgin) or peanut oil

Pinch cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice if necessary

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How many photographs of fried chicken do you think have appeared on the covers or in the pages of the various food magazines?  Thousands over the years, I would guess.  And, yet does anyone really make fried chicken anymore?  It’s just too easy to pick up a bucket at Popeye’s, Bojangles, Chick-Fil-A, KFC, or other chains or from the many local joints specializing in frying up the “holy bird.”  In New York City, for some time it has been Charles’ Southern Style Kitchen that has been the go-to spot for fried chicken.   With all the commercial fried chicken available, standing in front of a couple of hot pans of bubbling fat just doesn’t hold the same appeal to most home cooks.

For years and years I made what came to be known as the best fried chicken in the world.  It was, in fact, baked not fried, and it was moist, crispy and crunchy and not too greasy.  (The recipe follows.)  Steve’s aunt, a southern gentlewoman of a certain age, always felt that I screwed up a good thing with too much complication.  She simply did “a mess of chicken” lightly coated with flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, and fried up in a deep couple of inches of hot vegetable shortening.  No soaking, breading or coating for her.

When Steve saw me cutting up a watermelon the other day, he said “let’s picnic with some down home vittles” – little matter that “down home” was Brooklyn!  I knew that he meant fry some chicken, please!  So I cut up the chicken that I had planned to put on the grill (to save time and clean-up) and put it to soak in sour milk (made with a bit of vinegar added to whole milk as I didn’t have any fresh buttermilk nor any powdered to make my own) for a couple of hours.  I always use buttermilk or sour milk as my mom taught me that it insures moist, tender chicken.  (Don’t know if this is true but my chicken is never dry.)  Then, I put a good amount of all-purpose flour in a large resealable plastic bag with just enough salt and lots of black pepper.  Heated up a good amount of blended oil in my extra-large cast iron skillet.  Quickly pulled the chicken pieces from the milk, shook off the excess, and then put a few pieces at a time in the flour, sealed the bag, and gave a couple of tosses to coat the chicken well.  Placed all of the pieces in the pan (it was a big one) and, with medium-high heat, I quickly browned all sides and then turned down the heat and fried, turning frequently, for about 20 minutes.  The chicken had a beautiful crust – crisp, slightly salty, a bite of pepper – and the meat was deliciously moist.  We all decided that fried chicken should be on the table once a week for the rest of the summer and that one chicken isn’t enough – 2 or 3 would allow some leftovers!  Forget about those fast-food replicas – I suggest you get out the cast iron and fry up a batch of the real thing.

My Famous Not-Fried Chicken

Serves 6 to 8

Two 2½ pound frying chickens, cut up, rinsed, and patted dry

2 cups whole milk

½ cup plain yogurt

2 large eggs

4 cups all-purpose flour

½ cup fine ground cornmeal

1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1 teaspoon paprika

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 to 3 cups canola or peanut oil or vegetable shortening

Place the chicken in a large resealable plastic bag.

Combine the milk and yogurt in a mixing bowl, whisking to combine.  Whisk in the eggs to blend well.  Pour the milk over the chicken, seal the bag, and shake to coat well.  Refrigerate for at least for 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

Combine the flour, cornmeal, lemon zest, tarragon, paprika, and salt and pepper in a large resealable plastic bag.

Remove the chicken from the fridge and lift the chicken pieces, one at a time, from the soaking liquid, shaking to allow excess liquid to drip off.

Place a few pieces of chicken at a time into the seasoned flour, seal the bag, and shake to coat well.

As coated, place the chicken pieces on a sheet pan.  Do not crowd or the coatings will stick together and then pull off when you lift up each piece.

When all of the chicken has been coated, cover lightly, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.

When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 500ºF.

Divide the oil between two baking sheets with sides.  Place in the preheated oven until very hot.

Add the chicken pieces to the hot oil without crowding the pans.  Bake for about 15 minutes or until one side is golden and crisping.  Using tongs, turn and bake for another 20 minutes or until the chicken is golden brown and very crisp.  If chicken is getting too brown, lower the oven temperature to 350ºF.  If concerned about degree of doneness, insert an instant read thermometer into the thickest piece.  It should read 160ºF to meet most safety requirements.  Not to brag – well maybe a little bit  – I don’t use a thermometer for most meat or poultry cooking and I rarely over- or under-cook.

Remove from the oven and, using tongs, immediately transfer the chicken to multiple layers of paper towel or newspaper to drain well.

Serve hot or at room temperature.

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