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Archive for May, 2009

chocchipcookies (10)

Oreos might be up there on the list, but I would bet that American’s No. 1 favorite cookie is a homemade chocolate chip cookie. In our family, Laurel, my daughter-in-law, and my granddaughter, Clara, don’t like nuts in theirs, so when I make them I have to make a double batch, nuts in one, no-nuts in the other. When I was baking these I began to wonder just how many chocolate chip cookies I have made in my years at the stove. Since I began cooking when I was about 5 and I have more than one foot into those “golden” years, I would guess it must be up in the thousands, or even hundreds of thousands. And, you know what, I still lick the raw dough off the beaters and I still test the first batch out of the oven. I don’t think that my basic recipe has changed much over the years except I now use bittersweet chocolate chips. 

When friends were visiting for the weekend, the only request I got was “would you please make some chocolate chip cookies” so, being a good hostess, that is exactly what I did to welcome them.

Makes about 2 dozen

2½ cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon Dutch-processed cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon baking powder

1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

½ cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

2 large eggs, at room temperature

As many bittersweet chocolate bits as you like, I generally use about 3 cups

1½ cups to 2 cups toasted pecans or walnuts

Preheat the oven to 375ºF.

If you don’t have nonstick cookie sheets, lightly coat 2 sheets with nonstick spray or cover them with parchment paper or reusable silicon pan liners. Set aside.

Sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and baking powder together. Set aside.

Combine the butter with the dark and granulated sugar in the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with the paddle. Beat on medium until light and slightly airy. Beat in the vanilla, followed by the eggs. When well-blended, add the flour mixture, a bit at a time, beating to blend.

Remove the bowl from the mixer and, using a wooden spoon, stir in the chocolate bits and nuts until evenly distributed throughout the dough.

Using a tablespoon, drop the dough onto the prepared pans by the heaping spoonful, leaving about 2-inches between each one.

Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 12 minutes or until slightly crisp around the edges, golden on top, and still a bit soft in the center. Remove from the oven and let rest on the pan for 3 minutes.

Using a spatula, transfer to wire racks to cool, but test one hot, runny chocolate cookie to make sure you should keep baking the remainder.

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Octopus Salad

octopussalad (36)

Outdoor grilling days are finally here in the east, though I have been grilling all winter long on my most favorite kitchen pan – my All-Clad stovetop grill pan. I really should be given a prize by All-Clad as I have sold the use of this pan to more friends and cooking students than I can count. It does a really great job of mimicking the summertime flavors we all love. 

I sometimes just use it to make those inviting grill marks on steaks and then finish the cooking in a very hot oven. Sometimes I do just a quick grill and complete the whole dish in the pan. And, other times, it works to grill a bit of meat, fish, or poultry to top a salad. For the latter, one of our favorites is grilled octopus. The base of the salad can be almost anything, pasta such as orzo or traditional or Israeli couscous, cooked bitter greens such as broccoli rabe or chard, a mix of Greek or Italian ingredients such as feta, tomatoes, arugula, or any tasty salad green. 

octopussalad (40)

I buy fresh, cleaned baby octopus that only demands that you rinse it well before cooking. I do rinse and pat dry. Then, I toss the octopus with olive oil, salt, and pepper and put it on the very hot grill. It curls and dances as I tong it around the pan and in a few minutes it is cooked to perfection – tender, moist, and slightly charred around the edges. If you grill it too long, it toughens and you will have to cook and cook and cook to tenderize it. So quickly remove it from the grill and cut into serving pieces and use in any type of salad.

For the salad in this photo, I used spinach, radishes, scallions, and a nice citrus-garlicky dressing – only because this is what I had on hand.  I think that this will end my indoor grilling for now as the temperature has already moved into the 80s. It is time for big, fat octopus to be pre-cooked and then seasoned and grilled outside!

octopussalad

Citrus Vinaigrette

Makes 1 quart

5½ ounces fresh grapefruit juice

1⅓ ounces fresh orange juice

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons roasted garlic

1 to 2 tablespoons honey, plus more if needed

Chopped fresh thyme, parsley, or tarragon to taste – I use about 2 teaspoons

6 ounces olive oil

3 ounces green, spicy extra virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste

Combine the citrus juices with the garlic and honey in a blender and process to blend. Add the oils and process to emulsify. Season with salt and pepper and taste. Add additional honey, if desired.

Remove from the blender and whisk in the herbs. Store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks. Bring to room temperature before using.

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Chef Talk

burkeContinuing my cookbook work with chefs, I am now brainstorming with Chef David Burke on a new project. When we last worked together David was the chef at Park Avenue Café. And, here he is a few years later with a string of restaurants across the country: Fishtail and David Burke Townhouse as well as David Burke at Bloomingdale’s in New York City, David Burke Primehouse, Chicago, David Burke Las Vegas and Burke in a Box at McCarran Airport, Las Vegas, David Burke Fromagerie in Rumson, New Jersey, David Burke Prime and Burke in a Box at Foxwoods in Connecticut as well as his commercial ventures that include Gourmet Pops and Flavor Sprays. We recently have had some wonderful conversations, bits of which I would like to share. 

Having done one book with David, I am delighted to have the opportunity to work with him again as he is, without a doubt, one of the nicest people I know. And, he is the only chef that ever sent me flowers – 3 dozen long-stemmed yellow roses they were!

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Talking with David Burke

JC: Since you have so many restaurants in varying locations, I would guess that you really have the pulse on how the business is holding up in these difficult economic times. 

DB: Everyone is hurting in Vegas – tourism and conventions have lessened considerably in the past few months. But, otherwise, we are doing pretty darned well – as you can tell tonight (we were sitting in a packed dining room upstairs at Fishtail)

JC: Yes, indeed. I can’t tell you how many times I heard your reservationist say “I can give you 5:30 or 10” as I waited for you this afternoon. I was, frankly, very surprised. What are you doing to attract such business?

DB: I know that, more than ever, diners are now looking for value and we try to give it while keeping our menu innovative. We are offering more prix fixe menus at all of the restaurants and introducing a well-priced brunch on weekends to bring new diners to the table. I insist on using the highest quality ingredients which makes it very difficult to lower prices, so we have to be more inventive in how we use ingredients. Prix fixe menus are one way to do this.

JC: What about staffing – I had heard that there is an abundance of trained cooks and front of the house people looking for jobs as the economic downturn has closed more and more high-end dining establishments.

DB: Good times or bad times, it is always hard to find really great people. Nowadays, all the young turks want to be television stars as soon as they get their first job. I worked hard – and still work hard – to earn this white coat. I didn’t expect it to be handed to me, but it is sure hard to convince the young cooks that there are a lot of 18 hour days in my name on a chef’s coat. At the moment, I am really lucky with my New York kitchens – I have John Tesar at Fishtail (he was formerly at The Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas) and Sylvain Delpique at Townhouse, two really terrific chefs who know exactly what needs to be done to keep the kitchen humming. 

burke3

JC: What about the front of the house?

DB: You know the old saw about the front of the house always locked in battle with the kitchen? Well, it is more often than not true, but I do try to keep the peace by making sure that we all are headed in the same direction – giving diners a memorable night out.  Unfortunately, there are too few restaurants with the ability and time to train service personnel. Just remember, in the old days, the wait staff had to spend training time in the kitchen as they prepared sauces, salads, and meat and fish dishes table-side. This hasn’t been done for years and nowadays most front of the house personnel are people with other interests and careers. I try to understand this and still build a great crew and I know that I can be a difficult boss as I strive to give diners the perfect experience.

JC: Tell me a bit about the premise of Fishtail. Although I remember your tales of shucking clams and oysters on the Jersey shore as a boy, I still think of you more as a meat person. Why fish now, with the issue of sustainability present?

DB: For a long time I have wanted to take fish from that old broiled with a wedge of lemon. All of the fish at Fishtail comes either from Litchfield Farms, my company-owned boat out of Brielle, New Jersey or from Hunt’s Point’s top guys. My goal is to make Fishtail the first completely sustainable seafood restaurant in the country. But, I also want the dishes on the menu to be as interesting and inventive as anything I have ever done.

JC: You have just served me one of the most delicious fish dishes I have ever eaten. Far simpler than I’m used to at your table, but absolutely spectacular; butter poached king crab with parsley pureé and garlic foam. I know that I am going to dream about this dish!

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pineappleupsidedowncake (1)

I’ve never seen anybody turn down a slice of this old-fashioned dessert, so I always keep a can of sliced pineapple on hand to make it when impromptu dinners occur and fresh fruit or berries are not in season.

This is another recipe that my mom made (always in a cast iron skillet) and I think that it is the best. It is much lighter than most upside-down cakes with the beaten egg whites folded into the batter. I have, from time to time, used fresh pineapple, but I honestly prefer canned.  

Makes one 9-inch cake

¼ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup light brown sugar

Approximately 7 canned pineapple rings with their juice

Approximately 2 tablespoons dried cherries or cranberries

¼ cup walnut or pecan halves, optional

3 large eggs, separated

1 ¼ cups granulated sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1½ cups sifted all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ cup water

Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

Place the butter in a 9-inch round cast iron frying pan or heavy metal round cake pan. Place over very low heat and stir until melted. Add the brown sugar and ¼ cup of the pineapple juice and continue stirring until well blended. Remove from the heat.

Place the pineapple rings into the sugar mixture in a decorative pattern. Place a bit of the dried fruit in the center of each ring or in any pattern you desire. If using, place nut halves in any of the empty spaces. Set aside, but keep warm.

Place the egg yolks in the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with the paddle and beat until frothy. Add the granulated sugar and continue beating for about 5 minutes or until thick and lemon colored. Stir in the vanilla.

Sift the sifted flour and baking powder together and add to the egg mixture, alternately with the water.

Using a hand held mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form; then, fold the egg whites into the batter, blending to just combine.

Spoon the batter over the pineapple rings in the prepared pan, smoothing the top slightly. 

Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 30 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, the top is golden, and the caramel is bubbling up around the edges.

Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes. 

Invert the pan onto a serving platter and gently tap the cake loose. It should come out with the pineapple pattern intact.

Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream.

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