Along with the forsythia tumbling over the transverse walls in Central Park, artichokes are my signal that spring is here. The park offers that longed-for burst of energy from the vernal equinox and the Zingone Brothers bring me crates of baby artichokes that satisfy my hunger for culinary renewal. In their old-fashioned neighborhood Italian-family-owned grocery, the Zingone family has continuously fed me for almost 50 years – from my early svelte young model years through well-rounded grandmotherhood. Zingone Brothers – now widowed Mrs. Zingone and her children Dom and Mary, Uncle Nick and his sons, Richie and Nicky and Uncle Angelo – has been my culinary bedrock.

The younger generation has gone from calling me “mom” from my days owning a bakery of the same name to easy familiarity with “hey, Jude” and I’ve watched them grow up and have families of their own. Uncle Nick and Uncle Angelo always show courtly respect but love to show me how their wives cook whatever seasonal vegetable is on the stand in front of the store. This past week Uncle Angelo waxed poetically about his crates of baby artichokes. (Fortunately, Steve was there to photograph and so you see his time-worn hands pulling the leaves apart while he gives me cooking lessons.) I didn’t tell him that my mom used to buy gunny sacks of artichokes for one slim dollar from roadside stands in California nor that I had an intimate relationship with them in my own kitchen. We listened and, above all, felt Uncle Angelo’s deep love of the land and his visceral connection to the land of his birth.

I am perfectly satisfied dipping pulled-off leaves of steamed large artichokes into a quick mix of evo and aged balsamic and scraping off the bit of flesh each leaf yields to make a comforting meal. But, there are so many other things to do with them, particularly when they are tiny ones. Here is what I did with Uncle Angelo’s lesson. The recipe couldn’t be simpler – the result can be served as an appetizer, side dish, or hors’ d.

Braised Baby Artichokes

A couple of pounds of fresh baby artichokes

1 lemon

Olive oil

2 shallots, peeled and minced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

Zest and juice of 1 orange, preferably organic

½ cup dry white wine

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Wash and drain the artichokes. 

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice into the water. Then, add the squeezed halves. 

Working with one at a time, trim the top prickly tips from each artichoke (This is best done by laying the artichoke on its side and making one swift cut with a chef’ knife.) If the artichokes have stems, using a vegetable peeler, peel off the tough outer skin and cut bottom. Pull off any damaged outer leaves and then cut each artichoke in half, lengthwise. Immediately place the cut artichoke into the lemon water to keep it from discoloring. Continue trimming until all of the artichokes are done.

Cover the bottom of a large sauté pan with a nice layer of good olive oil. Place over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes or just until the aromatics have softened. Add the artichokes, cut side down. Add the orange zest and juice and white wine and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes or until the artichokes are tender.

Remove from the heat and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Taste and, if necessary, season with additional salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature. Or, cool and store, covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.

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I have always loved to color eggs at Easter time. When I was little, Easter was a big deal—I got a new outfit (including shoes—either white or patent leather) to wear to church, the Easter bunny hid eggs I had colored and left a beautiful basket filled with chocolate and marzipan, and my mom cooked up a feast to welcome spring – usually with ham at the center of the table. I passed my traditions on to my boys, but other than the eggs and the baskets, Easter doesn’t seem to hold much interest to them or their families. But, I still color eggs just for my own pleasure and to have on hand to make my favorite Greek Easter bread. But, I’m always left with the problem of what to do with all of the eggs that I have left, particularly because doctor’s orders say I’m not supposed to eat them. 

One of my mom’s favorite recipes for using up Easter’s basket of hard cooked eggs was to make Scotch eggs. I don’t know if this was because she was Scotch, herself, or if it was just an excuse to make a fancy dish out of everyday food. I never much liked them because I’m not crazy about sausage, but if you’d like to try them, here is what you do:

Peel hard cooked eggs. Make sure that the outside is a bit damp and lightly dust them with flour. Carefully enclose each whole egg with breakfast sausage meat, making a light, even coating. Then, as if this isn’t enough, you dip the coated eggs in beaten egg seasoned with pepper, and then in bread crumbs (Panko would be good to add that extra crunch) to generously coat. Now comes the good part, this cardiologist’s nightmare gets deep fried. Elegant ladies served these with Mornay sauce (Bèchamel {a simple white sauce – warm milk beaten into a butter/flour roux}with the addition of cheese), usually Swiss or parmesan.

Another old-fashioned recipe that was a long-ago favorite is the following English pub sandwich. Please don’t ask where the name comes from ‘cause I really have no idea, its just what my mom called them.

Thin Yellow Boys

Serves 4

6 hard cooked eggs, peeled and chopped

1 tablespoon minced sweet onion

1 tablespoon minced sweet pickle

1 tablespoon minced flat leaf parsley

1 teaspoon minced fresh dill

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon Worchestershire sauce

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

8 slices warm white toast, preferably homemade or homemade-style

If you don’t have a microwave, preheat the oven to 350ºF.

Combine the eggs with the onion, pickle, parsley, and dill in a mixing bowl, stirring to blend. Add the mustard, Worchestershire sauce, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste, stirring to combine. (If using a microwave, combine the egg mixture in a microwavable bowl.)

Place the mixture in a microwave and microwave on high for about 30 seconds or until very warm. If using the oven, transfer the mixture to a casserole, cover lightly, and place in the preheated oven. Bake for about 10 minutes or just until very warm.

Place an equal portion of the hot mixture on each of 4 slices of toast, smoothing to make an even layer. Top with another slice and cut into triangles. Serve warm.

Greek Easter Bread

Makes 2 loaves

This bread can be shaped in one of two ways; it is either braided with 4 eggs nestled in the braid or it is formed into a round loaf with one egg in the center and then 2 strips of dough laid over the egg to form a cross. I always do the braid. This bread has traditionally been made to mark the end of Lent.

6 cups unbleached flour plus more if necessary

½ cup sugar

1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest

2 teaspoons salt

1½ teaspoons anise seed

2 tablespoons instant rise yeast

1 cup warm (no more than 120ºF) milk

½ cup warm (no more than 120ºF) water

3 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten

½ cup melted unsalted butter, cooled slightly

4 to 6 hard cooked eggs, dyed red

Egg Glaze – 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon each water and sugar

Combine the flour, sugar, orange zest, salt, and anise seed in a large mixing bowl. Stir in the yeast.

Combine the warm milk and water with the eggs and melted butter, whisking to blend well. Add the liquid mixture to the flour, stirring as vigorously as possible to blend. When blended and stiff, scrape the mixture onto a lightly floured board and knead for about 10 minutes or until smooth and elastic. (This process may also be done in a heavy-duty standing electric mixer fitted with the dough hook. I just prefer the intimacy of working my hands into the dough as I knead.) If the dough seems very sticky, add additional flour, no more than ¼ cup at a time.

Lightly butter a large bowl and scrape the dough into it. Cover and set aside in a warm spot to rise for about an hour or two or until doubled in size.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Set aside.

Gently deflate the dough and divide it into two equal pieces. Cover one piece while you form the other one.

Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces and, using your hands, roll each piece out into a rope about 2 feet long. You might need to flour the surface lightly—I use Wondra flour when I roll. Lay the 3 ropes down, the length facing you. Lightly pinch the top ends together and begin braiding the ropes together. When you get to the end, gently form the braid into a circle and pinch the ends together. Carefully transfer the circle to one of the parchment-lined pans. Nestle 4 to 6 eggs equidistantly into the braid. Form the remaining dough into a circle loaf as above. Cover the two breads with a clean kitchen towel and set aside in a warm spot to rise for 1 hour.

Fifteen minutes before ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350ºF.

Uncover the breads and, using a pastry brush, lightly coat the dough with the egg glaze. Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 30 minutes or until golden brown and perfectly risen.

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